Great route, my friend Duane had to leave following the climb of T-Bolt the day before due to altitude sickness. Met Anthony Ambrose on the trail and climbed it with him the next day. Next morning 2-3 inches of snow everywhere, packed up for a hot shower at Parchers.
Amazing views along the traverse. Hope to head back soon to do the t-bolt - sill in its entirety.
Good climbing, impressive exposure!
With Oleg R car to summit via West chute to U notch and up the face left of chimney. Descended via Le Conte, camped near base of Starlight NW chute.
Fantastic climbing with Jack in an exhilarating setting! Perfect weather. U-notch was mostly snow with some ice which could be skirted. The bergschrund was passable on the right with 15ft or so of near vertical snow climbing. The 2nd pitch of the chimney above the notch has a few interesting moves. We stayed on the ridge crest after the chimney on the way to the summit, past two gendarmes, instead of dropping down into the other side - not necessary, but made for very exposed and exciting climbing (up to 4th class). Getting from the notch to the summit took a couple of hours. 12 hours total from camp and back. Highly recommended route!
Not too hard going from Starlight to NorPal.
Climbed U-Notch with 4 others during SMG outing. Took a long time but we got the summit and back to the glacier by rappelling through the night. Great route!
quite a bit easier than hype about this traverse lets on. n pal is of course the high point, but not the amazing spire of tbolt or the milk bottle
Beautiful day. Pretty good snow conditions, albeit slushy in the evening.
Bergschrund is wide open, and took us quite a while to pass. In the middle its about 15 feet wide and 20 feet deep (and overhanging). We were able to surpass on the right hand side of the schrund, where its more mellow (8' of mixed climbing). There's two other exposed crevasses (significantly smaller than the schrund); use good judgment.
AMS hit me hard near the summit of Starlight, and we only summited N Pal cuz it was on the way to the U-Notch descent! Wonderful, varied climbing and unparalleled position throughout made for a memorable day.
climbed as 3-member team, bailed when it was 6.30 and we were still at U-Notch. The 3 peaks that we did were awesome though!
Traverse from Thunderbolt to Polemonium-encountered some obnoxious ice on the route
Awesome 4th class climb. Had lots of good rappels on the way down. The ledge lived up to its name........I don't think I ever looked down!
In 2002, I lived in a condo box with my cat, climbing gear, bicycles, yada yada... The desperation occurred during a day-long, 19+ hour ascent of North Palisade con mi compadre Antonio. I'd been gnawing on Clif Bars all day and whilst on the descent down the U-Notch, suddenly, despite me hunger, I couldn't take another bite. That's because I was literally gagging and beginning to dry vomit trying to get that hunk of sugar grain down me gullet. That's the moment I now call "the epiphany." Two days later, after countless flashbacks of that nauseous moment, energy gels became a reality. The mission to achieve better nutritional fueling was accomplished. Thanks, GU, Hammer, et.al!
Great climb. A bit concerned about the rock fall.
...with Caltech Alpine Club on their annual advanced winter mountaineering trip, on 27-28 Mar' 2010, via the class 5 U-Notch + Chimney Variation
I loved the route; the long a$$ approach, snow travel across the glacier, crossing the schrund, climbing the couloir, a couple pitches of climbing at 14k, and then a nicely exposed scramble to the summit. It’s got everything. Overall the most challenging 14’er I’ve climbed.
Solo. No crampons so I had to cut steps up the U-Notch and stayed close to the rock. I used Roper's Guide and couldn't belive that crack was 4th class of course I was off route. Good times.
I was 19 and in such good shape that I don't remember it as being difficult. I followed a guy who'd attempted it 3 times, but was unsuccessful because of weather. We made it up the SW chute pretty quickly and luxuriated on top for a couple of hours taking in the fantastic view. A couple of Irish guys climbed up the east side while we were there. The weather was perfect. A few years ago, while hiking through Dusy Basin I looked up at the mountain, and shook my head and muttered something about youth and foresight and hiked on.