Solo. No crampons so I had to cut steps up the U-Notch and stayed close to the rock. I used Roper's Guide and couldn't belive that crack was 4th class of course I was off route. Good times.
I was 19 and in such good shape that I don't remember it as being difficult. I followed a guy who'd attempted it 3 times, but was unsuccessful because of weather. We made it up the SW chute pretty quickly and luxuriated on top for a couple of hours taking in the fantastic view. A couple of Irish guys climbed up the east side while we were there. The weather was perfect. A few years ago, while hiking through Dusy Basin I looked up at the mountain, and shook my head and muttered something about youth and foresight and hiked on.
I like this one.
The "gap" between Starlight and N. Pal was gnarly (and fun)! Was hoping to bag Polemonium as well but ran out of daytime. Came down the west side of the U-notch in the dark, a horrendous descent and a long day.
After Tbolt and Starlight's summits, N. Pal was anticlimatic. Route finding from Starlight was interesting.
Part of a traverse from the V-notch to Polemonium to North Pal to Starlight with kovarpa and hamik.
Climbed with Vladimir and Hakan from Palisade Basin via the U-notch chute. Finally succeeded after three tries with Vladimir, thanks to Hakan's route info.
LeConte route from Palisade Basin. Snow at the base of both chockstones made route more difficult than last year. No snow in third chute for second year in a row.
The second on our three peak traverse following Polemonium and on the way to Starlight. We approached via the west chute from Palisade Basin, then up the "Chimney". Safely summitting and descending was made possible through the team effort of my partners, Phil & Joe.
Climbed with Javier (avghiker). 4th class pitches down & to left of chimney were good fun. Met a gaggle of SP'ers (including Blackmouth who posted just below this post) on the summit. Excellent weather & climbing conditions.
Approached from Glacier Creek via Potluck. I found that climbing the icy chock-stones in the narrow chute below the bowl to be at about the upper limit of my ability at the time. Not surprised to see this route's been upgraded to class 4. Amazing climb, though.
Part of the traverse
Day hiked the Thuderbolt to Sill Traverse in just over 20 hours. Started at South Lake and ended at the shuttle car at Glacier Lodge. Climbed with SPer's Forjan,Kevin Trieu,Dave S,Luis Gijon and Corey Harelson. We used our double ropes to rap down to the U-Notch on our way to Polemonium. Ran into Sper's Chuck O and Javier on the summit of North Pal.
Began our trek in at 138am on Sunday, arrived about an hour and a half too late...got to the base of the 'schrund but the rockfall was a bit much to risk annihilation. Returning soon for revenge. Approached via NF Big Pine Creek, were aiming to climb the U-Notch + Chimney variation.
Cool climb. The views from camp at Thunderbolt Pass were amazing. I highly recommend the west side.
A super-fun climb thanks to the appealing route and great history. I soloed it, and high up in the chute remember thinking to myself that every step had to count--no room for error. Then I came flying up to the ridgeline at the top of the chute and darn near threw myself over before realizing what a yowza knife edge it was--whew, there's an empty elevator shaft if ever there was one. Great weather, great day, great climb.
U-Notch to Chimney stayed two nights.
Solo day hike out of South Lake.
Continuing the traverse. The swing across that gap was wild!