North ridge/Normal

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 39.45000°N / 72.88330°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: Scrambling/Walk up
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: Class 4
Sign the Climber's Log


Pik Petrovski's normal route is offering a nice alternative for acclimatizing for higher peaks in the area. It's a straight forward walk up, with some easy scrambling. If it has been snowing or if there's verglass conditions, you better be careful as some parts holds some exposure and fall at the wrong place can be fatal.

Altitude gain from Achi-Tash BC approx. 1300m.

Getting to the peak

Short version:
Kyrgyzstan - Aluu Valley - Pik Lenin BC.
The most common way is to arrive via Bishkek - Osh - Pik Lenin BC.
Motorized vehicles can take you all the way to the start of the climb.

Long version:
If you need all the details on how to reach Kyrgyzstan and the foot of Pik Petrovski, please have a look on the main page of Pik Petrovski.

Route Description

[img:94150:alignleft:small:The main ridge]
Start to walk towards the peak from Achi-Tash BC. You have two main alternatives.
Either you aim for the northern (right) termination of Petrovski's long ridge and gain access to it where it's at the same level as the valley. This is a longer walk until you can start gaining altitude, but on the other hand its less work than going for alternative two.
If you want to gain altitude faster, aim straight for the ridge and go up one of the gravel couloirs. They are all quite steep and it's a taxing undertaking to fight the loose gravel.

When on the ridge, follow the path of least resistence. There are a few place where you have to pay some attention to where to put your feet, but in general it's a very straight forward walk until you hit the place where the ridge start to run in a more westerly direction. First, the ridge gets a bit more sharp and soon you're up for some scrambling. For most conditions you better hold to the left of the two small rock towers. When you have passed these, the ridge drops slightly and then it gets broader. From there on it's an easy walk, usually on some snow, to the summit.

Essential Gear

Normal trekking gear.

Sturdy boots and gaiters.
Walking poles.
Windproof clothing.

If icy - bring crampons.

Conversion of Russian grades

Russian grades compared with other grades

Russian gradeAlpine gradeUIAA grade

6BEDVI and
6B SpecialEDVI and

Pik Petrowski North ridge is Russian grade 1B/2A which can be translated to PD.

Russian pass grading

To complicate things some more a different system of grading passes is used, of which it is even harder to make a conversion, so best is to just describe them;

NC (nog grade): Comfortable for pack animals, or even veh-
icle track.
1a ; Rough, possibly steep path, but often used
by pack animals.
1b ; Might require some scrambling or the use
of ice axe and crampons
2a ; Requires easy technical climbing and good
snow and ice technique
2b ; Requires moderately difficult technical
3a ; Involves a variety of technical difficulties
and possible objective danger
3b ; Sustained technical difficulties and/or
serious objective dangers, (equivalent to
UIAA grade VI)



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