Great winter conditions. Approached from Manzanita Lake to high camp just below ridge proper. On route, found mixed snow and ice, but overall good firm snow. Great route, really fun.
A fun, straightforward route in good conditions. Very scenic. Great camping below treeline with running water. The technical "difficulties" are low down if you stick to the true ridge crest (a few Class 3 moves on rock/snow). Alternatively, head a little further to climber's right into a small gulch. The rest is prety straightforward. The section inside the crater is fun. Awesome views of Shasta once you clear the trees!
climbed this route with my buddy Chad. We hiked it as a day trip from Manzanita Lake. Route finding is pretty easy, although there are many variations. I believe we climbed over the cornice that the route description refers to. There is a neat slot between this snow mushroom and the rock to its right. The traverse across the summit plateau is awesome and the highlight of the climb.
Great climb! Hiked up to the end of the Chaos Crags the first night. Climbed the peak saturday via a slighlty different route than the planned north ridge. Steep snow, wild terrain! The summit bowl was great too, although I could have done without the giant metal dildo on the higher south summit.