Northeast Buttress complete Additions and Corrections

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JasonCamp

JasonCamp - Nov 26, 2002 1:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Keep in mind that when you complete the mountain you are not on the same side as you started! It is best to leave a car on each side but be aware that this is an active logging area! The roads may be in active use in which case they should be in pretty good shape or they may be out of use in which case a 4X4 or more likely a tank might come in handy. You can leave a bike on one side and have that person bike around to get the car ~25km 1/2 of which is logging road but that can be a little much after the energy expended on the route -- my partner still owes me for that.... eh, Maruice? ;)

Buckaroo

Buckaroo - Nov 8, 2012 2:20 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Route Comment

The West side descent is no longer commonly done. The Crossover descent is well marked and now has a trail that goes back to the memorial.

Buckaroo

Buckaroo - Sep 25, 2008 1:44 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

""The first pitch is about 5.9 and goes upwards and right towards a corner system with a belay in a clump of hanging trees. The next pitch I have no clue as I ended up freeing an old section of A2 (completely by accident and a once in a lifetime endevor I can assure you!! ~ 5.11 no pro).""

The first pitch is a common place to get off route. The belay in the clump of hanging trees on the right is off route. The first pitch goes up and right to the first left facing dihedral just to the left of the decoy hanging tree belay. Then you go straight up the dihedral to a nice ledge belay. The dihedral looks improbable from below but it's only 5.8.

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