Northeast Face (via Gremlins Gulch Area)

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Steep scree climb some outcroppings
Time Required:
Half a day
Class 1 to 3

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Northeast Face (via Gremlins Gulch Area)
Created On: Oct 22, 2005
Last Edited On: Jan 9, 2008


Follow highway 395 to 203. When in Mammoth Village follow Main Street to Minaret Road this will lead you to the Main Lodge. The lodge cannot be missed.

Start climb from main lodge. Park and walk to the back of the buildings towards ski area.

Route Description

There is no set trail for this climb follow basic lines according to skill and comfort level. This route was climbed on July 29, 2005 and would change according to snowfall and melt.

From Main Lodge ascend mountain by prefered route to the top of lift (chair 26) descend into Gremlins Gulch/Saddle Bowl area.

From the point you will be faced with a wall of rock and snow. You will be climbing your way to the top for 1,000 feet from this point so make the right descision before heading out.

Choose the path of least resistance according to skill/comfort level. From the gulch things will get steep very quickly. On my approach there was class 3 sections on very loose scree leading to crumbling volcanic rock outcroppings to avoid unsafe late season snow and ice.

You will not find rest from the steep terrain until you top off on the summit ridge. The summit building is a very short walk away on even terrain.

After consulting the ski trail map I confirmed our ascent route as going between Drop Out Chutes and Cornice Bowl.

To make this a full trip follow a footpath behind Panorama Point and descend the southeast side of the mountain via Daves Run. You can slowly decend into the bowl until directly below the summit lift. Crossing small snow fields will be mandatory to reach this point but can be done easily without any traction device. This variation really gives you the feel of touring all of the best alpine aspects of the mountain. Be careful around this area we could smell sulphur for at least 20 mins of the descent.

Make your way down to McCoy Station and follow the easiest route back to the Main Lodge.

You will come to this...

Essential Gear

In summer no protection needed. Ascending snowfields optional, crampons/ice axe needed for snowfields.

Northeast Face (via Gremlins Gulch Area)

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