Northeast Ridge

See Main Page for Full Route Description with Photos

Approach

You have to get to the broad 11,500 foot saddle between Mount Villard and the small unnamed 12,000 foot point just north. You can either get there from Storm Lakes to the saddle (through which Villard is visible from the lower Storm Lakes) then traverse to the snow, or from Sky top Lakes.

Route Description

From the saddle, turn left and begin on the easy ridge for 300 feet on large talus to where the ridge steepens at 11,800 feet. Scramble up a Class 3 gully to the right (west) side of the crest and regain it at 11,900 feet. Continue up the ridge and reach a small flat spot at 12,020 feet at which point drop a few feet to the right and begin a traverse around the right side of a small tower utilizing a good ledge. Locate a 10 foot slab and chimney allowing a third class route back to the crest. Scramble on the now very exposed ridge crest without gaining much elevation and descend 40 feet into a small 12,040 foot notch. Climb 30 feet up a Class 4 dihedral, traverse around a large boulder and descend a short ways to a second small notch. Scramble up now easier terrain on the crest for 40 feet (Class 3) to where the ridge flattens. From here, it's 200 more feet on the now broad crest over stable talus to the summit. Plan on at least 2, likely 3 hours round trip from the 11,500 foot saddle.

Essential Gear

Ice Axe and maybe crampons. Be prepared for any weather.