Overview
The northeast ridge route, as far as I can tell, is the standard route up the mountain. Considering the presence of a fixed line just below the summit, it is more than likely to be the most common way up the mountain. According to Bo Beck, however, there is a variation up a ramp a few hundred feet lower that is slightly easier.
Getting There
See main Tabeau Peak
pageRoute Description
From the road, follow the path of least resistance towards the sub-peak that is the start of the northeast ridge (being an insatiable peak-bagger, I just had to top out on this diminutive peak.) From there the ascent is relatively straightforward: follow the gentle ridge to the base of the very steep upper mountain (there could be a route here but it looks like it would be consistently 5th class.) Contour to the left around the east side of the ridge. Scree surf on an ascending traverse, contouring below the northeast facing wall. Eventually you will reach a dead-end at a massive cliff that makes up the southeast face of the mountain. You will want to hike up as high as you can to where this larger face meets the northeast wall and a chimney of sorts leads to the summit. The fixed line should make it obvious. Climb the final, steep 100 feet, being judicious about your use of the fixed line. It really needs to be replaced.
Descent: Return the way you came, or, if you have the proper equipment, rappel down the slot that drains to the north between the two peaks of the mountain. Bo Beck says there is a pretty arch in this slot and makes for a much more enjoyable descent.
Essential Gear
Gear requirements all depend on your comfort level with exposure. 99 percent of the climb is easy, fun scrambling, no gear required (other than sturdy shoes or boots and food or water.) However, the last hundred feet or so is close to vertical, and while there is a fixed line, it is of dubious quality and is held in place by a giant nail pounded into a crack in the rock. So for this final section, a rope, slings and a few chocks might be worthwhile, along with a helmet.
Weather
Beaver Dam, Az.
weather