Strange and unusual day with smoke and hot wind but an enjoyable trip up the NE Ridge with JG. Must come back for the North Arete.
A very nice ridge with great rock. Highly recommended!
Jealous of all the fast car to car folks. Talus hopping approach with camping gear wasn't too fun, but even with staying at Dade it still took us pretty much the entire next day to climb and hike out.
Car to car in 12 hours via Gem Lakes on a beautiful day. Solo'd with a 30m rope in the pack but ended up not using it...
A fun solo... the difficult section was shorter, but a little stouter, than I expected. Downclimbed the route.
Nice. Less climbing than I expected.
Approach Beta to minimize talus: go right around the Gem lakes (counterclockwise) along a small use trail all the way till you come up toward the cliffs on the west side. From there, look up right for a low point between the cliff and the high bluffs above the lake. There is a small amount of bushwacking but you can easily gain the low point by means of a light use trail. From that low point, contour left around the hill, with Treasure lakes on your right, in the direction of Dade Lake. Bear Creek Spire will come into view and guide you there.
Car to car from Mosquito flat with a group of seven from SMG. Stayed in one of the walk in sites the night before. About a 13 hour day. Just an all around fun climb. Near the top of the ridge we climbed through a small window and made our way around the backside of the peak to reach the summit. Great summit block!
brrr...dropped to zero at night. Cold, but fun climb!
Solo car to car, beautiful day and awesome experience. Highlight of a longer trip.
Due to the 5.5 rating we brought a rope and some pro, but no one felt like they needed it so we soloed the entire route. The summit block was an easy up and down. Rapped off the summit and went back by Ulrich's route. Took about 11 hours car to car.
Climbed in one day from Mosquito Flat with SMG. Planned to use a running belay but ended up soloing the route because it was so much fun and the holds were plentiful. Great rock, scenic route. Getting to the summit from the end of the ridge was the hardest part, took a little recon to figure out the best way there. A snowstorm descended upon us at 11:00am while on our way down and made things a little exciting. North Arete looks amazing!
Great climb! Amazing summit block! Beautiful area! Climbed in hiking boots and no rope. Route finding wasn't as bad as everyone says. Probably my favorite 4th class route so far!
The summit traverse was nice and exposed...
High winds left me and Gordon Ye uncertain about climbing the route, but luckily the winds had eased off by the time we started the route. A great climb, and next time I'll be back for the North Ridge.
Thunder, Lightning, and Hail....got nuked off the route
Car-to-car solo; Wonderful and exposed on ridge after joining N Arete. I love this climb. The summit mantle is hilarious fun.
Perfect weather and excellent views.
Also did it in August 2007.
Fun ascent....we used the rope for one pitch after getting off route a bit. Then traversed to Mt Dade.
The view of the North Arete will make you want to return and climb it.