Northwest Couloir

Page Type
Wyoming, United States, North America
Route Type:
Time Required:
Most of a day
Class 4

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Northwest Couloir
Created On: Apr 5, 2003
Last Edited On: Apr 5, 2003


Follow directions for approach up Garnet Canyon to The Meadows. At The Meadows turn left (south) and follow this fork to the saddle between South Teton and Middle Teton. Don't be tempted to begin your contour toward South Teton early. Continue ALL the way to the saddle until Icefloe lake is visible to the west.

Route Description

This is the most popular route on South Teton. From the saddle between South Teton and Middle Teton turn left (south) and begin ascending moderate talus. It is not necessary to stay directly on the ridge crest itself. It is best to contour across the talus aiming for the right (west) side of a permanent snowfield that rests on the north slopes. Cross the snowfield and take caution. The snowfield is steep. Crossing without iceaxe and/or crampons is a calculated risk. Some years previous traffic wears a trenchlike path across this snowfield. Either way, be prepared and take caution.

Once across the snowfield brings you to the base of a short coulair. It is mostly Class 3, but Class 4 climbing is required in parts. Climb the couloir to the summit ridge about 100 feet west of the true summit. A short scramble leads to the true summit.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and crampons along with knowledge of how to use them is advised for most parties.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.