Northwest Passage

Page Type
Route
Location:
Oregon, United States, North America
Route Type:
Aid Climbing
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
C2
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
4
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Created On: Dec 9, 2006
Last Edited On: Dec 9, 2006

Overview

One of the longest most sustained clean aid lines in the park. The line Starts on the West Face and moves over to the North Face to avoid the upper bolt ladder pitches to keep the line more natural.

Getting There

Follow directions to Monkey Face. The route starts on the first pitch of the West Face. At a 5 bolt ladder at the very western tip of Monkey Face.

Route Description

P1: Follow the first pitch of the West Face route. Starts at 5 bolt ladder. C1+ or 5.12B AO

P2: From the belay on the small ledge follow bolts straight up and turn the arete. Bolts on the right lead up the West Face. After about 5 or 6 bolt moves begin to aid the crack of the North Face. Belay at two bolt sling belay. C2

P3: Follow the crack past one bolt to another bolt. From the last bolt begin to hook or free climb right and up into the mouth. C2 5.7

P4: Follow 5 bolts out the the mouth mantle to ledge, aid off one more bolt then free to the top. C1 5.4

Essential Gear

Clean aid rack to 2"
Hooks: doubles of grappling and cliffhanger

External Links

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Northwest Passage

Route
0 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Routes in Oregon

Parents

Smith: Monkey FaceRoutes