NW face

Page Type
China, Asia
Route Type:
Time Required:
High altitude
Rock Difficulty:
5.6 (YDS)

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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NW face
Created On: Feb 16, 2008
Last Edited On: Feb 17, 2008


The route has three parts.
1). Easy walk on scree and a little snow gaining altitude.
2). Climb up the steeper slopes on snow and ice. 50 Degree maximum. Reach flat summit.
3). First down climb from flat snow summit to a gap. Find a good way on rocks and then climb up a rotten rock face to real summit.

Altitude gain from my camp 700m.
2 hours up. Long time looking for best way on the rocks.
40 minutes down.

Getting There

When you see the whole Toze Kangri Range look to the south end. You see a pyramid peak which is steeper than the rest in front of the range. This is Toze Pyramid. See photo.
Seen from P5798 NNW of Toze PyramidToze Pyramid from 33km

Base Camp

A good place is NNW of the mountain. River valleys with shelter from the wind can be found. There is also water in many places here.


Route from far awayRoute from far away

Head towards the mountain on easy surface. Don't start to climb to the summit too early. If you go straight for the highest point you may be stopped by difficult rock near the summit. Better go towards the rock bastions in the north. Hold left/east of the largest ones.
At 5500m approximately you maybe want to put on crampons. It can be icy here. Also watch out or rock under thin ice and ice which has frozen rocks on top. A basic ice and snow climb on 40-50 degrees.

When you reach the flat snow summit look west. Walk to the edge of the flat area and down climb on quite easy rock to a little valley. Traverse under some overhanging rock faces to your left. Head up the next valley on your right. Go to the fork. It's getting steeper and steeper. I tried on the left which looks easier but the rock was too rotten. Better climb straight up a steeper face ahead. Clear the route from rotten rock while you go. Some rocks are 50kg but falls if you touch them. There are only two tricky moves.
On the summit you will find skeletons of small animals which birds of pray have killed. Also a Chiru horn I put there.
Rocks to summitRoute last part on rock

Essential Gear

Ice axe, crampons.
Very difficult to find good protection on the rock. Try with slings around rocks. Nuts, friends etc are of no use. Too rotten rock.