NW Ridge

Page Type
Valais, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Rock + Ice climb
Time Required:
One to two days

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Page By:
NW Ridge
Created On: Mar 10, 2004
Last Edited On: Mar 17, 2004


Start point is Susanfe Hut
Access :
- From Champéry Grand Paradis - Bonavau - le Pas d'Encel
3h30 (T3)
- From Barme Sous la Dent - Bonavau - Pas d'Encel 3h30 (T3)
- From Salvan Van d'en Haut - Lac de Salanfe - Col de Susanfe 6h
4h30 from Van d'en Haut (T3)
- From Marécottes Emaney - Col d'Emaney - Lac de Salanfe - Col de Susanfe 8h (T3)
Access in winter :
Champéry Grand Paradis - Barme - Col de Comba Mornay 5h TD / ESA
Salvan Van d'en Haut - Lac de Salanfe - Col de Susanfe 5h AD / BS
Marécottes Col de la Golette - Lac de Salanfe - Col de Susanfe 4h30 AD / BS

Route Description

From Susanfe Hut, start right out in the south, climb some rocks (don't start by night, the way is very difficult to find in the dark...), follow the sheep trails into northern direction. You arrive under a rock barrier you conturn by the right (chains, steps). On the summit of these steps, take NE on the moraine. You are in a cirque, at the end, take direction N, into "la Grande Pente" (the big slope), it's a snow slope of 35°. At the summit, you see on your right the Pont Ruan.
Walk to the collar of the Tour Salière on the left . From here you see for the first time the summit. The glacier is first flat, then becomes steeper before the collar. At the collar, leave crampons and iceaxe and climb on the ridge on the right. The ridge is easy to climb (II+). It's a succession of steps(the highest is 6m tall) and the most difficult to climb of them can be conturned by the right.
Descent : the same itinerary

Level difference : 1130 m
Length of the difficulties : 300 m

Essential Gear

Rope 20 - 30 m
Harness, iceaxe, campons

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

NW Ridge

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