Page Type
Graub├╝nden, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Rock climb with glacier approach
Time Required:
Half a day

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Created On: Dec 10, 2005
Last Edited On: Dec 11, 2005


Start on foot from the Rifugio Sciora in the SW direction. Continue due S after a while to the base of the NW-ridge. You will have to cross a glacier for a small distance.

Route Description

Enter the main ridge by a ramp on 2300m. Follow the ridge to the top of the 'vorbau' or the 'B├╝geleisen'. The route is mainly slabclimbing. The crux is a very steep slab (V+). From here it is possible to rappel to the base of the climb where you can pick up your glacier equipment and return to the hut. This is what most people do and is considered a 'plaisir' climb.
It is also possible to finish the ridge by summiting the Pizzi Gemelli itself. This makes the tour a real alpine outing. The last part consists of much loose rock and involves taking your ice equipment with you for the descent.

Essential Gear

Approach: Standard glacier equipment (ice axe, crampons)
Climb: Standard rock climbig rack supplemented with webbing/schlings, nuts and cams.
Route to the top: Both rock and ice equipment.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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