I feel obliged to mention something about the descent. We tried to follow the E Ridge to the Mendel/Darwin col. This is not the correct way to go. We ended up having to do some rappels to get down off the E Ridge to the Darwin Glacier. I think the correct way to go is to head down off the ridge via some 3rd class well before the col. Maybe someone who got the descent right can offer some specifics?
Just wanted to mention that Lamarck Col approach is the best way to get to the Mendel Couloirs. There is now (2015) good use trail all the way to the Col, something we could only dream off in the 80s. Start at the North Lake TH. Take the Lamarck Lakes branch off Piute Pass Trail. The correct way to cross the Lamarck Col is on the extreme left side as you look at the Col(the whole saddle). There are many incorrectly drawn routes up the Col on the Internet. Again, the extreme left side by a small triangular peaklet is the correct way to cross the Col. Class 2, snow/ice of the snow field can be easily avoided by boulder hopping.
BTW Regarding the above descent comment, I have rapped off the back side of Mendel to the slope above the closest (small) lake at the base of Mt Darwin. If I remember correctly, there were three raps with 50 meter rope to reach terra firma.
After monitoring this climb and waiting many years for the ice to form I finally made the trek, anticipating it to be in great shape at the end of summer following an epic winter. To my disappointment, both Mendel right and Ice Nine are completely melted out - bone dry top to bottom.
This was after one of the biggest winters in a decade or so, with snow still persisting in places it hasn't been in many years. But not in these routes, unfortunately. So the modern report is this - the only way these couloirs can be climbed nowadays is either in early season, on snow, or only after many heavy winters in an row - a situation that is not likely to occur again.
poorboy44 - Sep 14, 2005 12:20 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI feel obliged to mention something about the descent. We tried to follow the E Ridge to the Mendel/Darwin col. This is not the correct way to go. We ended up having to do some rappels to get down off the E Ridge to the Darwin Glacier. I think the correct way to go is to head down off the ridge via some 3rd class well before the col. Maybe someone who got the descent right can offer some specifics?
asmrz - Jul 10, 2015 7:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Lamarck Col approach is bestJust wanted to mention that Lamarck Col approach is the best way to get to the Mendel Couloirs. There is now (2015) good use trail all the way to the Col, something we could only dream off in the 80s. Start at the North Lake TH. Take the Lamarck Lakes branch off Piute Pass Trail. The correct way to cross the Lamarck Col is on the extreme left side as you look at the Col(the whole saddle). There are many incorrectly drawn routes up the Col on the Internet. Again, the extreme left side by a small triangular peaklet is the correct way to cross the Col. Class 2, snow/ice of the snow field can be easily avoided by boulder hopping.
BTW Regarding the above descent comment, I have rapped off the back side of Mendel to the slope above the closest (small) lake at the base of Mt Darwin. If I remember correctly, there were three raps with 50 meter rope to reach terra firma.
Darren9 - Aug 22, 2017 11:41 am - Hasn't voted
Conditions - goneAfter monitoring this climb and waiting many years for the ice to form I finally made the trek, anticipating it to be in great shape at the end of summer following an epic winter. To my disappointment, both Mendel right and Ice Nine are completely melted out - bone dry top to bottom.
This was after one of the biggest winters in a decade or so, with snow still persisting in places it hasn't been in many years. But not in these routes, unfortunately. So the modern report is this - the only way these couloirs can be climbed nowadays is either in early season, on snow, or only after many heavy winters in an row - a situation that is not likely to occur again.
Craig Peer - Nov 22, 2017 3:15 pm - Hasn't voted
a shamethat's a shame to hear Darren.