In late May of 2008, the cairns and aid sling above the Epaule were missing. Here's what I observed:
We reached the ramp that slopes upward from left to right above the Epaule via the wet chimney that goes up straight from the crest of the Epaule. This short chimney is YDS Class 4. After walking the ramp, the second little pitch is a tight chimney with a small chockstone, about YDS 5.0. One is then faced with three options: the final chimney described on the route page(snow-filled and scary-looking in late May), an easy 5th-class groove about 25 meters to the right of the chimney (wet in late May), and a face with a crack about halfway between them. The middle route is ~YDS 5.0, very pleasant; after that you walk to the top. A couple of slings and a small stopper will protect all pitches if desired.
chugach mtn boy - Jun 18, 2017 9:33 pm - Voted 10/10
2008 UpdateIn late May of 2008, the cairns and aid sling above the Epaule were missing. Here's what I observed:
We reached the ramp that slopes upward from left to right above the Epaule via the wet chimney that goes up straight from the crest of the Epaule. This short chimney is YDS Class 4. After walking the ramp, the second little pitch is a tight chimney with a small chockstone, about YDS 5.0. One is then faced with three options: the final chimney described on the route page(snow-filled and scary-looking in late May), an easy 5th-class groove about 25 meters to the right of the chimney (wet in late May), and a face with a crack about halfway between them. The middle route is ~YDS 5.0, very pleasant; after that you walk to the top. A couple of slings and a small stopper will protect all pitches if desired.