Great job with that family in a tough spot, and great writing. I should not have read this before bed. Banner was my first mountain, and I also camped at lake Catherine, and you brought back lots of memories. I can understand the enthusiasm of 'Craig' to repeat his childhood trip in that respect, if not his preparation for it.
I don't imagine that his ex-wife will let him take the kids on any other Sierra adventures. There'll be hell to pay for this and rightfully so. I wouldn't take an inexperienced adult climber up Ritter unroped, much less an inexperienced child. They are very lucky to be alive.
I especially appreciate the non-patronizing tone it was written in. You had an important point to make, and I think you got that across without chastising these people.
The situation made me cringe. Getting yourself in trouble is one thing, but your young kids?? Very well written - thanks for sharing. I wonder if he will ever get in touch or digest what happened.
I soloed the north face of Ritter back around 1990 and descended by the same route as Craig (west face). From your photos it looks like your snow conditions were the same as what I experienced. During my climb, it was foggy and the visibility was very poor. I, too, climbed down chutes on the west face, only to be stopped by cliffs over and over. I had to climb back up and try descending at another location. Eventually I found the correct descent chute and made it back to Lake Catherine. I suggested to Secor that he make it clear in his guidebook that descending the west face was not a good option unless the visibility was good and you knew exactly where to descend.
Very wise and helpful commentary, thanks for sharing your experience. We attempted the north face of Ritter a couple of years ago but backed down when we arrived above the col and realized we weren't certain of the optimal scrambling route (and hadn't brought rope). We summited Banner instead. We're going for Ritter again this coming weekend, this time via the SE glacier route. We'll be sure to have an axe and crampons for the snow.
jpsmyth - Aug 3, 2011 2:47 pm - Voted 10/10
Very compellingGood thing you guys were there. Gripping trip report.
Trawinski - Aug 3, 2011 4:10 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Very compellingThanks. Yes, it was good, and we didn't mind helping out.
Stu Brandel - Aug 3, 2011 11:21 pm - Voted 10/10
Well DoneGreat job with that family in a tough spot, and great writing. I should not have read this before bed. Banner was my first mountain, and I also camped at lake Catherine, and you brought back lots of memories. I can understand the enthusiasm of 'Craig' to repeat his childhood trip in that respect, if not his preparation for it.
mvs - Aug 5, 2011 12:56 am - Voted 10/10
wowCreepy with the guy collapsing on the hike down. Glad they are okay, and that you guys were there with extra food.
Alpinist - Aug 5, 2011 1:20 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice job!I don't imagine that his ex-wife will let him take the kids on any other Sierra adventures. There'll be hell to pay for this and rightfully so. I wouldn't take an inexperienced adult climber up Ritter unroped, much less an inexperienced child. They are very lucky to be alive.
Trawinski - Aug 5, 2011 1:25 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice job!Thanks.
He he, yeah I know. We were thinking the same thing, but figured it wasn't the time to berate him for his decisions.
boyblue - Aug 7, 2011 2:15 pm - Voted 10/10
Good ReportThose people are very lucky you were there. Ritter is a mountain that should never be under-estimated. Ritter 1971
LoneRanger - Aug 8, 2011 4:16 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Good ReportThanks,
That was a very relevant addition to this report
Augie Medina - Aug 7, 2011 2:45 pm - Voted 10/10
GrippingYou have a very effective prose style.
BobSmith - Aug 7, 2011 5:09 pm - Voted 10/10
Not only...did the father make horrible decisions, he's also an ingrate for not emailing or calling you to thank you after the fact.
OOG - Aug 7, 2011 6:12 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice report.I especially appreciate the non-patronizing tone it was written in. You had an important point to make, and I think you got that across without chastising these people.
granjero - Aug 8, 2011 3:35 am - Hasn't voted
Yikes!Great writeup on a close call. Good on ya for helping out those in dire need and passing on the word of lessons for all to learn from.
Trawinski - Aug 8, 2011 10:49 am - Hasn't voted
Thanks All!Thanks all for the compliments and votes. Cheers!
Denjem - Aug 9, 2011 5:11 pm - Voted 8/10
Good WorkGood work on your part. I hope the guy realizes what happened and thanks you.
ElGreco - Aug 10, 2011 1:15 am - Voted 10/10
OuchThe situation made me cringe. Getting yourself in trouble is one thing, but your young kids?? Very well written - thanks for sharing. I wonder if he will ever get in touch or digest what happened.
MoapaPk - Aug 11, 2011 11:27 am - Voted 10/10
Thank youGreat analysis. The line between life and death is so thin. You kept them on the correct side.
Sierra Ledge Rat - Aug 11, 2011 9:40 pm - Voted 10/10
Interesting storyI soloed the north face of Ritter back around 1990 and descended by the same route as Craig (west face). From your photos it looks like your snow conditions were the same as what I experienced. During my climb, it was foggy and the visibility was very poor. I, too, climbed down chutes on the west face, only to be stopped by cliffs over and over. I had to climb back up and try descending at another location. Eventually I found the correct descent chute and made it back to Lake Catherine. I suggested to Secor that he make it clear in his guidebook that descending the west face was not a good option unless the visibility was good and you knew exactly where to descend.
iditarod81 - Aug 30, 2011 2:13 am - Voted 10/10
Well statedVery wise and helpful commentary, thanks for sharing your experience. We attempted the north face of Ritter a couple of years ago but backed down when we arrived above the col and realized we weren't certain of the optimal scrambling route (and hadn't brought rope). We summited Banner instead. We're going for Ritter again this coming weekend, this time via the SE glacier route. We'll be sure to have an axe and crampons for the snow.