Osiris is a 36 metre VC 4c, that deserves every one of its 3 stars.
It was first climbed by Pardoe and Griffiths in February 1967.
It's on the non tidal Lewes Castle buttress at Fall Bay in the beautiful Gower coastline of South Wales. A ledge below this route sits above "King Wall" a tidal section of the area that contains some great lower grade routes.
It's only a ten minute walk from the car park and there is a pub there as well!
Starting the route
Nearing the roof
There is an old peg here, but you don't need it, there is good gear to be found easily. I doubt that was the case in 1967 when the route was first ascended, pre cams and all...
After the traverse, about to pull through the weakness in the roof
Start at a prominent leftward slanting groove under the roof. Follow this to a stance under the roof at it's widest point, by an old peg. Traverse right under the roof on good handholds but with only smears for the feet. Get yourself under the weakest point of the overhang, catch your breath and pull through on holds that are positive once you've found them! Finish up the easier headwall above. Belay a few metres back on short steps of rock.
Osiris traverses right under the roof
Should you choose to move up rather than right at the widest part of the roof, you would be on a route caled Lazy Sunday Afternoon, an E2 5C
Chris Wyatt about to surmount the roof
There are 22 routes recorded just on this buttress, with another 21 on the next buttress and yet another 37 on the lower tidal tier. A really great place to climb that holds special memories for me as it was the first place I ever climbed.
Osiris the God
Osiris was the Egyptian god of the dead, and ruler of the underworld. He was also the god of resurrection and fertility. The ancient Egyptians believed that Osiris gave them the gift of barley, one of their most important crops. Many of the routes on Lewes Castle are named after Egyptian Gods, whilst those on King Wall are generally named after Norse mythological characters.
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