Pauper's Buttress

Overview

A moderate scramble up the lefthand of twin buttresses on the Queen's Face. A good introductory route to alpine climbing/scrambling on Vancouver Island.

Getting There

Approach on the King's Peak trail to the lower meadow. Use the best of the options to gain the North Glacier. Hike up the glacier directly tot he toe of the buttress.

Route Description

Start up a crack and pull over a roof that spans the lower part of the buttress. Gain the right edge of a straight, shallow chimney that is the obvious line of weakness in the wide roof. Climb the edge of the chimney to one of several belay ledges. Scramble up direct on low 5th class rock to a ledge with an obvious stunted hemlock tree. Continue up the low angle rock (4th class) to a large rock platform that crosses the whole buttress crest. Traverse to the left end of the ledge and climb a gully up to a second large platform below a steep headwall. Make an exposed traverse to the right on a narrow ledge to reach easier rock. A final 30m chimney leads to the top and walk-off descent.

Essential Gear

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External Links

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