Page Type: | Trip Report |
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Lat/Lon: | 39.34343°N / 72.87433°E |
Date Climbed/Hiked: | Aug 28, 2018 |
Activities: | Mountaineering |
Season: | Summer |
I participated in the Urubko Camp expedition organized by the very strong alpinist Denis Urubko (who joined us for the attack to the summit)
We where 8 guys and ladies (7 russian and 1 italian) and we used services of "Asia Mountains" agency (tents and food at BC and C1)
If you need, there's the possibility of using porters up to c3 (we didn't use them)... horses to C1 and then rucksack
5 of us + Denis climbed and reached the summit the 27th of August in 6h from camp 3
Here the calendar of expedition
08.04/05 flight to Osh
08.06 Osh
08.07 Osh
08.08 transport to BC
08.09 Acclimatisation on Peak Petrovsky
08.10 Acclimatisation to Tulpar-Kol
08.11 Camp 1
08.12 Yukin Peak
08.13 Camp 1 (snowfall)
08.14 Camp 2
08.15 Camp 2 - BC
08.16 BC
08.17 BC
08.18 Camp 1
08.19 Camp 2
08.20 Camp 3 and Peak Razdelnaya
08.21 Camp 3 and up to 6500 for acclimatisation
08.22 From Camp 3 to BC
08.23 BC
08.24 Camp 1
08.25 Camp 2
08.26 Camp 3
08.27 SUMMIT and down to Camp 2
08.28 Camp 2 - BC
08.29 BC - Osh
and than 2-3 days of rest in Osh
We anticipated the summit day by loosing a day off at BC to avoid the bad days ahead; the summit day was very cold and windy (photo) and I had frostbite on my face
BC is very confortable, C1 is good, C2 is very hot and dirty, at c3 there is nothing but snow
There aren't very difficult parts on the way up; big crevasses with ladders between c1 and c2, huge seracs before c2 (run away, don't stop), small and bastard crevasses between c2 and c3 (better use rope)
From c3 to summit are 1200mt d+ cause you have to lost 150mt on the shoulder just after c3 and obviusly 150 up at return (we took 6h from c3 to summit)
BE CAREFUL, Peak Lenin is easy but dangerous (5 deaths in 2018... avalanche, sickness, falls in crevasses), be trained, listen to your body and eyes open always