Two ascents after being stormed off my first try. Enjoyed it even though this was before the descent became a lot easier.
Soloed P1 and led P2, P4, P6 & P8. I had such high expectations for this climb and left somewhat disappointed. I thought the climbing, though steep and attention-getting for the grade, was often awkward and not that much fun. Cool formation though, no question about that. The route was disgustingly overcrowded which made it not enjoyable. I like climbing efficiently and fluidly, not climbing a pitch and waiting an hour to start the next one behind a bunch of inefficient gumbies. We wasted close to FIVE HOURS waiting around on belay ledges. NEVER AGAIN! Its not THAT good!
Did this back in the day with Mr. Brian "Epic Legend" Story. Car to car in about 16 hours. Awesome trip, a bit stormy on top, pretty dang scary and exciting. Made for a short time spent on the summit.
with Alex Blum via the south face on a beautiful colorado summer day
Super fun route! Go on a weekday to avoid the crowds. We were the only ones there.
What a fun route and spectacular summit.
Beautiful summit. Had it to ourselves. Rappels weren't much fun.
Warming up for the Diamond. 10.5 hours ctc with Big Will, no rush. Great, exposed climb.
The chimney pitches were a little dark and wet but coming out on the face was stellar. Very little snow at base. Did it in 7 pitches. Thought some of the moves on p4-6 were hard for 5.8 but the "crux" was typical and full of fixed gear. Awesome summit and raps brought me back exactly to my boots. Start 6:30 summit 9:53, glacier th 1:30. My bivy the night before was under a star filled sky.
did the south face with Alex on 06/29. still early season so only 3 parties on the route on a weekend. we got lost initially and went up the drainage to a climb that looks exactly like the Petit, who's first ascentionists thought they were on the Petit 40 years ago. Saw 1 fat lumbering marmot, 1 crazed/sick elk, a meteor that burned up in the atmosphere right in front of us only seconds before what would have been impact. Great climb, although we may have gotten slightly offroute and made it 5.10ish
my first 50 Classics summit!
With Dan. Climbed the crux pitches and did the 5.9 variation to the crux - didn't think it was that bad at all. Double ropes made the rappels nicer although we got a little off route and rappelled the east gully for a bit before getting back to the bolts.
I dared to climb the popular South Face on Saturday of Labor Day weekend, 2006. It rained pretty hard the night before, and the morning was still overcast. Turned out to be a great thing, since all but one other party was scared away. Had awesome weather all day. Exciting climb.
Attempted this with Nick (Dudethatmusthurt). We got turned back by the ubiquitous Colorado Rockies thunderstorm (& hail), rapping after the third pitch. Beautiful & awe-inspiring, they nonetheless don't make summit bids any more practical (or enjoyable)... :( 3rd-classed the first pitch. The route up until then was steep, exposed in places, sustained easy to mid-fifth, with bomber rock. Views were incredible, climbing was quite enjoyable. Great rock, grand & amazing formation, spectacular setting- I'll be back!
After miscommunication, couldn't wait any longer, & did with Faith (sorry Nick!). An excellent climb- utter classic. While we got a late start on the climb (11.33), it felt way too early as it was after getting up in Parker before 5.00 (after ~ 4 hours of sleep)... Great rock, good pro', exceptional climbing. Views phenomenal as well (sweet seeing the top of Longs peek over the ridgeline upon summiting!). One party ahead of us, aside from that we had the climb to ourselves. Popping up onto the arete on the final pitch was mind-blowing. Summit probably the most outrageous I've been on- vertigo-inducing!! Summited at 18.30. The sheer verticality on top made me nervous about descending! 2 ropes would have eased the descent considerably... After too many rap's to count, we were finally on terra firma at 22.40. Vety glad the weather held up for us. Amazing climb, company, & day. Wow.
nice route.. hiked in night before and bivied under a beautiful moon. up at 5.. first on the route.. beautiful day of conditions.. hit the 5.9 variation on the crux pitch.. thanks jason for a great climb.. shared rap down with another team.
Third time up this thing, cruised the crux!!
A CMS guide said to me after hearing I climbed this route, "it gets harder, and it gets higher, but it doesn't get any better" - well said. I often describe this peak as the size and shape of the Eiffel Tower. 1st day we had to rap off from the top of the 5.7 crack in a hailstorm. Next day perfect weather allowed passage: the upper pitches are amazing, steep with great exposure, plentiful holds, and fantastic black and yellow granite.