Photo of the Dorothea Wallner Gedächtnis Route

This route on the south face of the Musterstein is rated VI+. The crux pitch feels considerably harder than that, probably a solid VII. The belays are bolted, and the crux pitch has bolts on the face section. There is steller crack climbing in the upper pitches.

My partner is circled at the bottom of the picture to give a sense of scale. The two red dots mark where I fell and where I ended up on a bad, bad day in November 2005. Yesterday we finished the route. If you believe the route book, it was the first climb in 3 years?

Photo June, 2007.


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Ejnar Fjerdingstad

Ejnar Fjerdingstad - Jul 2, 2007 9:15 am - Voted 10/10


with two days ago.


mvs - Jul 2, 2007 12:33 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Congratulations

Thanks! Though I wish we had gone Sunday, the weather was dry then. The cracks would have been dry, and much less intimidating :-).


mvs - Jul 12, 2009 3:27 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Very nice!

Thanks Borut! Even though my story about this climb is not all fun and games, I must say the crack climbing was really excellent. Very sharp cracks inside, but perfect hand jamming for several pitches.

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