Hello!
I'm planning to climb Mt Blanc this year, in the middle of July. The chosen ascent route is the one called 'normal', leading through Gouter and the Bosses Ridge. Since I prefer not to go back the same route (that's recommended option), I wonder how hard and dangerous is to go down go through le Grand Plateau then les Petites Montes, les Grand Mulets sheleter-house, and down across la Jonction and Glacier des Bossons. I'm specifically asking for any details about the trail through Glacier des Bossons, since its advertised differently. One say it's quite safe, while the other call it a hell on the earth. How hard is to pass these crevasses? What's snow consistency in the summertime? I do not have any experience on glaciers. It's going to be my first climb in high mountains, tough I excersised a lot in winter in some lower rocky (alpine comparable difficulties) mountains. I'll appreciate any information.

Greetings,
Cezary

P.S. Please, support your opinion with strong arguments. I noticed many answering just like: "do not go there stupid!"

CezaryK wrote:I do not have any experience on glaciers.

So forget about it.
Different opinions on the glacer arise from the different conditions you may encounter in different seasons. In winter grands mulets is the normal route, in summer "La Jonction" sometimes is impassable. At least you should be fit in crevasse rescue.

You can google some quite impressing pictures for the crevasses at la Jonction... eg. here (still in winter!) or
of course at SP.

Martin

Flachlandtiroler wrote:

CezaryK wrote:I do not have any experience on glaciers.

So forget about it.
Different opinions on the glacer arise from the different conditions you may encounter in different seasons. In winter grands mulets is the normal route, in summer "La Jonction" sometimes is impassable. At least you should be fit in crevasse rescue.

You can google some quite impressing pictures for the crevasses at la Jonction... eg. here (still in winter!) or
of course at SP.

Martin

Thanks Martin for your response. I did some research. It seems that this route is getting more hard to pass year after year, since the snowpack is much more broken as a result of global warming. I'm in doubt. I found many contrary opinions. Here they say: "Really this route is only a consideration as a means of descent in very early summer, or on skis in spring. To consider this route your glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills should be very good." On the opposite side is that guide that notes: "This route is technically the easiest." I think I would ask people on my way if they plan to descent through La Jonction. Maybe I'll find some that will lead our team on a way down. I'm going there with three relatively unexperienced folks.

Greetings,
Cezary

Hello Cezary,

CezaryK wrote:"This route is technically the easiest."

From what I've seen and read I would second that, as long as no one falls into a crevasse (which is not that unlikely) oder storm / fog comes in.
The striking reason (not to go there) IMHO is lacking experience with glacier travel, not the technical difficulties.

Martin

Flachlandtiroler wrote:Hello Cezary,

CezaryK wrote:"This route is technically the easiest."

From what I've seen and read I would second that, as long as no one falls into a crevasse (which is not that unlikely) oder storm / fog comes in.
The striking reason (not to go there) IMHO is lacking experience with glacier travel, not the technical difficulties.

Martin

Well, I have only theory of glacier travel in my mind Think I'll do as I've written. Try to find and follow reliable-looking folks. Otherwise will go back the same route - that would be very disappointing to me...

Cezary

You could also make a traverse from Mt Blanc -> Mt Maudit -> Mt. Blanc Tacul and take the cable car down from Aguille de Midi, but prepare to be in for a long day!

I did the trip two years ago from Midi and return. 30-40 people took this route, so it is frequently used. Check the conditions of the climb down from Maudit and Tacul in the mountain office in Chamonix. They might not be in good condition ...

damgaard wrote:You could also make a traverse from Mt Blanc -> Mt Maudit -> Mt. Blanc Tacul and take the cable car down from Aguille de Midi, but prepare to be in for a long day!

I did the trip two years ago from Midi and return. 30-40 people took this route, so it is frequently used. Check the conditions of the climb down from Maudit and Tacul in the mountain office in Chamonix. They might not be in good condition ...

Thanks damgaard. I'm quite ready to take the challenge, but I'm going to lead a group of unexperienced folks, so that is certainly not an option for us. We've already decided to take Gouter route up, and down as well.

Greetings,
Cezary

That sounds like a very good choice, if your group does not have much experience! There was around 50-60 meters of 60 degrees or so vertical ice climb on Mt Maudit, when I was there. Some safety ropes for belaying had been put up, but I really wouldn't trust them that much.

If you have no experience of glaciers and if you have to lead a group of other unexperienced people, I think you should not go to Mont Blanc at all, or go with a guide !
The normal route is not technically difficult but it is dangerous ( one guide died 3 days ago below the Refuge du Goûter ... ) mainly due to high altitude conditions that can vary very quickly and become very difficult in case of fog, snow or storm.
Do not rely on the high number of people who are on the same way, if things turn bad, you will feel very lonely !
This is just an advise and you do what you want but remember Mont Blanc is not hiking, even if it looks like !

Also, I think it is basically impossible to go down from Grand Mulets Refuge to the valley by Glacier des Bossons : there are more crevasses than ice in the bottom part of this glacier !

damgaard wrote:That sounds like a very good choice, if your group does not have much experience! There was around 50-60 meters of 60 degrees or so vertical ice climb on Mt Maudit, when I was there. Some safety ropes for belaying had been put up, but I really wouldn't trust them that much.

Yeah! It looks very exciting, really... Will go there next year!

papyours wrote:If you have no experience of glaciers and if you have to lead a group of other unexperienced people, I think you should not go to Mont Blanc at all, or go with a guide !
The normal route is not technically difficult but it is dangerous ( one guide died 3 days ago below the Refuge du Goûter ... ) mainly due to high altitude conditions that can vary very quickly and become very difficult in case of fog, snow or storm.
Do not rely on the high number of people who are on the same way, if things turn bad, you will feel very lonely !
This is just an advise and you do what you want but remember Mont Blanc is not hiking, even if it looks like !

Also, I think it is basically impossible to go down from Grand Mulets Refuge to the valley by Glacier des Bossons : there are more crevasses than ice in the bottom part of this glacier !

papyours, thanks for your carrying words, but really, with a bit of common sense in our minds, Mt Blanc is not a huge challenge. I really know what 'bad conditions' mean, and as long as I decide, we should be fine. But... who knows, something wrong can certainly happen.
As for the way down across Glacier des Bossons, I've analyzed many pictures taken in that area. I found interesting shortcuts for passing the glacier quick. Instead of trying to reach the middle station of the cable car, one can go north-west from Grand Mulets to the rocks of Mont Corbeau. There's a hiking trail over there. And the route down across the glacier is really short.

Greetings,
Cezary

I'm wondering how you can lead a group of unexperienced climbers on a glacier when you have no experience yourself. It's a huge responsibilty you have for such a group.
Why don't you consider to hire a guide for this trip. He can learn you the basic skills of glacier rescue and other basic skills needed for glacier travel.
Please take note that a glacier rescue is a hard and technique demanding operation.
If you haven't the knowledge of this other climbers will have to risk their safety to help you out.

The above is just for consideration.

Good luck,
Olaf

Olaf wrote:I'm wondering how you can lead a group of unexperienced climbers on a glacier when you have no experience yourself. It's a huge responsibilty you have for such a group.
Why don't you consider to hire a guide for this trip. He can learn you the basic skills of glacier rescue and other basic skills needed for glacier travel.
Please take note that a glacier rescue is a hard and technique demanding operation.
If you haven't the knowledge of this other climbers will have to risk their safety to help you out.

The above is just for consideration.

Good luck,
Olaf

Olaf, did you mean that the glacier above Refuge du Gouter is somehow dangerous? I read many travel logs for Mt Blanc, and in most of them that part of route was considered as an 'easy walk'. I've just spoke with a guy that did impressive climbs in Alps, that said that there is no need for rope at all on the classic route. I wonder how is that there are so many different opinions?

Cezary

CezaryK wrote:Olaf, did you mean that the glacier above Refuge du Gouter is somehow dangerous? I read many travel logs for Mt Blanc, and in most of them that part of route was considered as an 'easy walk'. I've just spoke with a guy that did impressive climbs in Alps, that said that there is no need for rope at all on the classic route. I wonder how is that there are so many different opinions?

Cezary

If the weather is fine and nobody falls in a crevasse, then climbing a mountain like Mt. Blanc can be an easy walk up. It's just a long hike upwards, and people even walk in t-shirts or shorts in summer. However, when something happens such a trip turns from heaven to hell real quick. Most of the time you are fine, but the weather and the mountains are always unpredictable, and it is for these situations that you should be prepared, not the sunny accident-free hike (that you will hopefully have).

You must ask yourself if you would know what to do when things aren't fine. As for the rope: in retrospect, I have never really needed a rope, or my crevasse rescue skills. But that doesn't mean that I can safely go and solo some vertical rock climb or hike on glaciers. If you rent a guide consider him as a rope: you probably and hopefully won't really need him, but he will hold your fall and save your life in the case something bad happens. And something bad happens each and every year to a certain number of people on Mt. Blanc!

Rick B wrote:If the weather is fine and nobody falls in a crevasse, then climbing a mountain like Mt. Blanc can be an easy walk up. It's just a long hike upwards, and people even walk in t-shirts or shorts in summer. However, when something happens such a trip turns from heaven to hell real quick. Most of the time you are fine, but the weather and the mountains are always unpredictable, and it is for these situations that you should be prepared, not the sunny accident-free hike (that you will hopefully have).

You must ask yourself if you would know what to do when things aren't fine. As for the rope: in retrospect, I have never really needed a rope, or my crevasse rescue skills. But that doesn't mean that I can safely go and solo some vertical rock climb or hike on glaciers. If you rent a guide consider him as a rope: you probably and hopefully won't really need him, but he will hold your fall and save your life in the case something bad happens. And something bad happens each and every year to a certain number of people on Mt. Blanc!

Rick, I'm not interested in hiring any guides. I would if I was one of these noobs, but I'm certainly not. From what I've seen on pictures taken on route, in July there are lots of people hiking there. The trail on the glacier is marked very well, and following dozens of folks makes the chances of falling into a crevasse almost zero. In case of weather turns bad, we have enough time to wait for better time. From my point of view it is really an 'easy walk'. I really don't find any reasonable arguments for hiring a guide.
Anyway, thanks for your input!

Cezary