BD C4 #.4 issue

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Luc

 
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BD C4 #.4 issue

by Luc » Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:27 pm

Has anyone noticed if they walk more than other cams?

Had an issue last weekend in a vertical crack, leaving the cam trigger sticking out of crack with a runner going off to the side.

Second showed up at the placement and the thumb-loop was a couple inches in the crack.
I got it out on rappel, luckily managed to hook the trigger with my nut tool and pushing the thumb-loop with the tip of my index. I have to put a retriever on that thumb loop... never had an issue with Metolius cams in that size range.

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Dow Williams

 
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Re: BD C4 #.4 issue

by Dow Williams » Tue Sep 27, 2011 10:40 pm

no, placed it a million times, along with Metolius gear...Luc, prob more of a flaring crack issue...might have looked perfectly parallel, but no doubt was not. Most common mistake in flaring cracks is not extending the piece out enough to avoid rope drag on the gear, which in turn causes it to walk.

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Luc

 
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Re: BD C4 #.4 issue

by Luc » Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:40 am

Dow got it right, I should have put a longer sling but I wanted to re-direct the rope to protect my second.
The route was following a left facing corner and the route exited towards the right. Placed the cam on the left side of the corner with a runner before heading right.
Had had some issues with the rope getting snagged by a crack higher up the route, wiggling it loose probably caused the cam to walk lower down the pitch.
One of the only times I lead with a single rope, reminds me why I prefer doubles.

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The Chief

 
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Re: BD C4 #.4 issue

by The Chief » Wed Sep 28, 2011 3:35 am

Any Cam, regardless of manu, will walk if improperly placed without a proper extension runner use if the situ dictates, regardless of type of crack or placement. That will come with experience.

No big deal.

PS: Something one can do is try to locate some stop feature inside the desired placement aspect that will curtail the walking of any lobe on the cam. All it takes is one lobe of the three or four on the cam to be prevented from walking, and the cam will stay put.

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brenta

 
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Re: BD C4 #.4 issue

by brenta » Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:52 am

If the route takes a 90 degree turn and you place a cam at the turning point to protect your second, a longer runner reduces rope drag, but does not prevent cam walking much better than a short runner because it is kept taut by the bending rope. Your best bet, as the Chief suggests, is to find a placement where the rock prevents the cam from walking. Failing that, one could put two pieces in opposition--one preventing the other from walking. For obvious reasons, it's not done very often.

Concerning the 0.4 C4 vs., say the yellow or orange Metolius, the Metolius cams have stronger springs and smaller cam angle, both of which make them less prone to walking, but not in any decisive manner.

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Skateboards2Scrapers

 
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Re: BD C4 #.4 issue

by Skateboards2Scrapers » Thu Oct 06, 2011 6:55 pm

Slang it out! Use runners and slings

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Luc

 
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Re: BD C4 #.4 issue

by Luc » Thu Oct 06, 2011 9:13 pm

or double ropes ;oP


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