bolts

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potreroed

 
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Re: bolts

by potreroed » Wed Oct 27, 2010 11:38 am

No and no.

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ksolem

 
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Re: bolts

by ksolem » Wed Oct 27, 2010 5:47 pm

Some bolts are reliable. Some are not. The main variables are age, size, rock quality and the skill with which they are placed. It's good to know what you are looking at with bolts, but it can be tricky. The first one below, for example, looked just like a good 3/8" rawl until it came out. The white metal was a clue that it was inferior. It pulled easily and was only 1" long!

Not a good bolt (cheap material not made for climbing:)
Image

Right: Old 1/4" buttonhead: junk. Left: New 3/8" 5 piece: a good replacement if properly placed:
Image

Petzl Long Life: A great bolt unless you want to remove it:
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Fixe Triplex: A good bolt designed to be removable (the nut MUST be properly torqued):
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Old bolts from a route at The Needles, and a new Fixe Triplex used to replace them:
Image

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Dave K, HeyItsBen

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Climber Dave

 
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Re: bolts

by Climber Dave » Wed Nov 03, 2010 9:27 pm

sjarelkwint wrote:yes and yes
You feel fucked :lol:




Wow I bet you would! :shock: :shock:


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