What are the rules for having a guide in Ecuador these days? It seems like they instituted mandatory guiding in 2012 for some peaks, or maybe for entering national parks, but I can't find the precise rules online. Anyone know the rules, or have a link? Thanks!

I have heard it is enforced on the standard routes on the popular peaks and that you will be turned around at the access roads without a guide.

If you are on a route or peak that isn't usually guided (such as Sara Urco or Altar), you should be OK.

Regarding Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, I received the following reply from the Ecuadoran Environment Ministry:

Cotopaxi: All visitors who want to climb the peak of the mountains should send an email to gregorio.nunez[at]ambiente.gob[dot]ec. You can´t enter without a reservation.

Chimborazo: You have to send an email to Chimborazo ANDEAN ADVENTURES, to refugioschimborazo[at]gmail[dot]com.
Person in charge is Alexandra Calero +593 032965820

There do not appear to be any unusual requirements for the other peaks.

After having actually been to Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, I am even more confused about what the actual rules are, or even if there are any. The people at the Cotopaxi Park gate really, *really* don't want you to enter without a guide if you tell them you are climbing something, even if that something is not Cotopaxi. If you want to get into the park without a guide, make sure you come prepared with written permission from some higher authority. Also, the people at the refugio say you're not allowed to camp nearby, and the guides will probably harass you a bit if they figure out what you plan to do.

As for Chimborazo, we didn't get a chance to climb because the park closes at 4:00 PM, and the gate guard did not seem willing to make any exceptions, even though we got there at 4:15. I imagine there's a similar shake-down at the refugio.

So, if you want to climb in Ecuador, bring something in writing from the higher-ups at the Ministerio de Ambiente.