Everest Fight - Care to Speculate

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Re: Everest Fight - Care to Speculate - new conspiracy theor

by Yury » Sat May 11, 2013 4:09 am

I believe that bilingual Russian and bad English (was it translated by Google?) blog by Denis Urubko provides the most sensible explanation of what has happened there. Unlike many other sources Denis’ blog is less than 100% politically correct and as a result easier to understand:

However we need to understand that Denis is a professional mountaineer and as a result he is not willing to tell us everything he knows. So I would like to complement Denis’ blog with my own conspiracy theory. :)

Recently I have not heard anything about money negotiations between Sherpas and commercial expeditions. It’s understandable because both parties would want to keep general public in the dark. However from books I read many years ago I remember a few stories when delays caused by bad weather or climbing accidents were used by Sherpas as tools to negotiate additional money for them.

So it seems to me that Lead Sherpa used that “Stepping over ropes” incident as an excuse for work stoppage. He sent a team of 17 Sherpas down to cause an additional delay with intent to blame Ueli Steck, Simone Moro and Jon Griffith for creation of unsafe work conditions. He just wanted to have a better bargaining position.

At this point Steck and Moro did not have a lot of options.
- Had they done nothing they would have been blamed by leaders of commercial expeditions for this delay and their additional expenses.
- So they fixed the ropes and as a result spoiled planned negotiations between Sirdar and commercial expeditions.
As a result many Sherpas were angry not because of unsafe work conditions but because Steck and Moro essentially "stolen their money" by fixing remaining ropes on that day. It’s not about egos or single bad Sherpa. It’s about money.

Sirdar has acquired his higher paying position not because of his climbing skills but because of his connections to Nepal bureaucrats and his purported ability to control Sherpas. So he behaved like a longshoremen trade union boss in old movies.

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Re: Everest Fight - Care to Speculate

by radson » Sat May 11, 2013 6:56 am

As an observer from the periphery I find your scenario very unlikely. I freely admit I do not know directly how Sherpas for the commercial teams are paid but am fairly sure they are paid on a fixed basis not a daily basis, so the quicker the job is done, the better. I cant seen an incentive to draw it out myself.

Secondly, the guys who fix the ropes to summit are I believe picked on merit and status by the big commercial teams and is considered a prestigious position by the guys in the rope fixing team and by their fellow sherpas. The bigger commercial teams generally have very long standing relationships with their lead sherpas, a symbiotic relationship that neither side would want to threaten by subterfuge. Yeah it happens a lot with porters in the Khumbu and bloody hell in Pakistan with HAP's but lead climbing Sherpas are from what I have seen are generally in a different league.

I dont know. I'm biased and apparently I was 'part of the problem' Everyone is examining this incident to be much more meaningful and indicative of a crisis in 'climbing' than me but it just seems a very small incident escalated out of control by the age old ingredients of pride and impulse turning into an almost deadly feedback loop.

Each year for the last year everyone frets about the commercialism on Everest. This year for the last 20 years. Come June everyone moves on. Nepal government wont mess with their cash cow. Namche Bazaar and the rest of the villages continue to expand. A crash everyone now and then at Lukla does not seem to deter too many people. Nothing concrete is ever proposed about the Everest 'problem' The problem seemingly defined as crowds of Wall st bankers having the audacity to spend money to be 'dragged' up everest by indentured and enslaved sherpas for a bullet point on their resume.

I absolutely loved my time on Everest in 2008 and 2010. I am not a real climber, fuck I hate that word real but that does not diminish to me the absolute beauty and menace of standing before Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse from Pumori ABC, walking the cwm or seeing Pumori poke its head above the clouds from the Lhotse face in the setting sun. I am not showing off, I just absolutely loved it. To this day, I try to get back to Nepal every year and planning to have a crack on Cholatse in November with Ngima 'chicken legs' Sherpa, someone who I completely respect and admire. Other climbing sherpas I do not admire and will not share the reasons why. I too gag at some of the romanticism and 'noble savage' treatment of Sherpas. I have seen Westerners (defined as non-nepalis) treat sherpas appallingly and on the flip-side I have seen fucking amazing altruism and philanthropy.

Anyways, enough ramble. Just venting some of my thoughts.


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