Expanding My Rack

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mbmsfreerider

 
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Expanding My Rack

by mbmsfreerider » Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:32 am

So this Christmas it looks like I'll be getting some climbing gear. I know mountaineering gear is too expensive so I'm planning to stick to asking for Rock Climbing gear. I'm curious what you guys would suggest for me to get as my next additions to my gear.

I have a harness, shoes, helmet, and rope and here is my rack.
B.D. Camalots .5-3
B.D. Stoppers 4-13
B.D. C3's 1 and 2 (On order so I will count them)
12 quickdraws

Here is what I am thinking of adding

One cam to bridge the gap from the C3's to camalots. (not sure if i need this but I am considering it.)
Few large hexes-Just one or two of the bigger ones. These seem to be the most useful and versatile.
Trad Draws-Don't have any so I know I need at least a few
Gear sling-might be nice but I think my rack is small enough to put on my harness.
Doubles on a few cams-maybe #1 and either .75 or 2

I want to have a versatile rack for use on alpine and multipitch trad climbing. I know this may not be all I'll need but let me know what you think of this as well as any other ideas.

Thanks

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kiwiw

 
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by kiwiw » Sun Dec 06, 2009 7:44 am

your rack looks good, start saving you money for a car so you can actually put your rack to use. do you have an ice ax? do you have a lightweight sleeping bag? you can climb most snowfields with just a ice ax (without crampons), and a nice bag will keep you much warmer on alpine climbs than a couple of cams.

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climberslacker

 
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by climberslacker » Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:30 am

Hey! I know you!

I would add more sewn runners, and definetly some lockers and some free biners for setting up anchors at the top. Also some cordelette may be useful in maybe a 20 foot length. Maybe get a #4 camalot, as I have found it to be useful around here.

-Jace

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mbmsfreerider

 
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by mbmsfreerider » Sun Dec 06, 2009 4:58 pm

I have a M.H. switch 20degree synthetic sleeping bag which I am thinking isn't enough. I should probably get a 0 degree down bag. No I don't have an axe either. The other thing I'd probably need is some boots though. Right now do all my hiking and approaches in my Merrels.

I forgot to mention that I will get a #4 and I have spare lockers and biners. But yeah slings and trad draws seem like a good idea.

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climberslacker

 
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by climberslacker » Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:47 pm

well all trad draws are is a tripled up 24" sewn runner with biners on each end. So if you get some sewn runners, and your climbing and feel like trad draws might be a good idea, just convert them, thats what I do. But make sure if you need them at top you keep enough to use!

-Jace

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mbmsfreerider

 
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by mbmsfreerider » Fri Jan 22, 2010 11:17 pm

Alright so the advice was really helpful but now things have changed a bit so I'm curious what you guys would say. Here is my current rack.
C4:.4-4
C3:1 and 2
BD Stoppers 4-13
BD Hexes 10 and 11
4 single slings
12 quickdraws

I've decided to hold off on alpine climbing for now. I may do some alpine rock climbs but probably in the summer. I just don't have the money for boots or the clothing or anything for true mountaineering or alpine climbing.

So I want to have a well rounded rack for multipitch trad and alpine climbs.

So is this really good enough for now?
If not what should I be doubling up on? I know I need a few cam doubles (.5-1 or 2 seem most useful) and I think one or two smaller sizes of hexes could help. Ive heard people say for doubling up on stoppers to get either all the middle sizes or get a full range of either odds or evens and i dont know which is better.
I also want to add a few more single slings and 1 or 2 double.

Any thoughts?
Thanks

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divnamite

 
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by divnamite » Fri Jan 22, 2010 11:22 pm

Prolly good enough, but you'll quickly discover quickdraws are not as good as trad draws. especially on any wandering routes or going over roofs. If you are committed to trad, then bypass quickdraws, buy shoulder length slings and biners to make traddraws.

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Mark Straub

 
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by Mark Straub » Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:20 am

Sounds like a great rack! It's virtually identical to the one I own. I'd recommend buying 2 double-length draws (twice the length of shoulder-length) and 4 more shoulder-length draws. You can use the carabiners from your quickdraws, don't buy more.

Also, it's good idea to buy BD hexes 7-9 as well. Maybe a couple smaller, I haven't used them but I think it would be kind of nice to have 5-11. Cams are useful, but I'd go for the draws first.

It's a good idea to carry 2 pieces of 9-foot 1" tubular webbing so that you can bail if necessary, or reinforce an anchor. Also good for slinging large rocks. 2 pieces of 3-foot 6mm perlon also comes in handy, and you can use it to make prusiks with.

Good luck! I know exactly how expensive it is to pay for this stuff, I am trying to convince myself that it's okay to spend $200 for ice screws as long as I buy them at half retail price.

-Mark

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norco17

 
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by norco17 » Sat Jan 23, 2010 3:20 am

get one or two double runners and a couple more singles. You can normaly get a deal on a full set of hexes or stoppers if you go into the mom and pop stores. Either get the full range of hexes or double up on some cams and go have some fun. Don't forget the stuff to build an anchor I use 7mm cord.

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sushiman

 
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by sushiman » Sat Jan 23, 2010 3:47 am

sillycone? :lol:

I couldn't resist it.

expand the rack?

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kiwiw

 
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by kiwiw » Sat Jan 23, 2010 4:23 am

I really don't like tricams, I bought 4 of em a long ass time ago and just sold them last month because I realized I never used them. whenever I tryed too I ended up fiddling around forever and the final placement was often marginal. personaly I would hold off buying hexes and tricams and save your money for cams and another set of nuts if you really felt the need. or, save the money for other gear.

If this infuriates the other posters here, go ahead, spray away!!!


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