First Winter Ascent on Nanga Parbat

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Cy Kaicener

 
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First Winter Ascent on Nanga Parbat

by Cy Kaicener » Fri Feb 26, 2016 3:40 pm

Alex Txikon, Simone Moro and Ali Sadpara have summitted and are now back at C4

http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/20 ... nt-of.html

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/N ... eyid=43495
Last edited by Cy Kaicener on Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: First Winter Ascent on Nanga Parbat

by Marmaduke » Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:18 pm

Cy Kaicener wrote:Alex Txikon, Simone Moro and Ali Sadpara have summitted and are now back at C4

http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/20 ... nt-of.html


Man, some brutal conditions there!

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Re: First Winter Ascent on Nanga Parbat

by Diego Sahagún » Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:50 pm

Nanga Parbat: First Winter Summits! (Updated) :arrow: http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... 1456487321

Til Txikon updates his blog, Alex Txikon hace historia al coronar el Nanga Parbat: http://www.marca.com/deportes-aventura/ ... b464a.html (in Spanish) :)

Hope they descend well...

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Re: First Winter Ascent on Nanga Parbat

by Diego Sahagún » Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:58 pm

They are already in their the C4 tents (7200 m)

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Re: First Winter Ascent on Nanga Parbat

by Cy Kaicener » Fri Feb 26, 2016 5:22 pm

Alex Txikon
1 hr ·
Leher eginda, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro eta Tamara Lunger 4Kn (7.200m) dira dagoeneko. Kontaktu laburra eta eskasa izan dugu Txikonekin. "Pozik eta harro" sentitzen dira egindakoarekin, jakina, baina gaurkoa "oso oso gogorra eta luzea" izan dela aitortu digu lemoaztarrak; tontor-trapezioa "uste baino tenteagoa" dela eta "espero baino izotz gehiago" aurkitu dutela azken kanalean. Bestalde, muturreko neke hutsak eta ondoezak (goraka aritu da lehen orduan) eraman dute Lunger tontorretik ez oso urrun amore ematera. Bihar goizeko 10:00etan ekingo diote BKranzko bideari.
Extremely tired, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have already reached C4 (7.200m). Feel obviously happy and satisfyed, but admit that today's work was "very hard and long"; that the summit-trapeze is "steeper than expected" and terrain was "really icy" on the last couloir. On the other hand, it was just extreme fatigue and early-morning-pukes what made Lunger desist not very far away from summit. Tomorrow will begin to descend at 10:00am.
Derrengados, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro y Tamara Lunger han llegado ya al C4 (7.200m). Apenas una breve y entrecortada llamada por parte de Txikon para contarnos que se sienten obviamente felices y satisfechos, pero que la jornada ha sido "extremadamente dura y larga"; que el trapecio cimero es "bastante más pino" de lo que pensaba y que han encontrado el terreno también "más helado" de lo que esperaban. Por otro lado, ha sido simplemente el cansancio extremo y el malestar físico (vomitonas a primera hora) lo que ha hecho desistir a Lunger no muy lejos de la cumbre. Mañana emprenderán el regreso a CB a partir de las 10:00 de la mañana.

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Re: First Winter Ascent on Nanga Parbat

by Cy Kaicener » Mon Feb 29, 2016 4:35 pm

All safe in Base Camp - A summary of the bigger picture

http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/20 ... of_29.html
================================================================================================================================================================================
https://www.facebook.com/SimoneMoroOfficial/ -- log in

https://www.facebook.com/alex.txikon.5/ -- log in

https://www.facebook.com/tamaralunger/ -- log in

Aus dem Leitartikel: L’impresa di Moro parla anche di noi (Moro’s Herausforderung spricht auch von uns) – Gazzetta dello Sport am 28.02.2016, Andrea Monti der Zeitungsredakteur:
[...] In Wahrheit, bleibt ein hohes Risiko und ist Teil der Herausforderung. Am Besten wurde dieses Risiko von der einzigen Frau der Expedition verwaltet, der durchhaltenden Tamara Lunger, welche sich, geplagt vom Brechreiz, kurz unter dem Gipfel zur Umkehr entschlossen hatte. Eine weitsichtige Weisheit, welche uns einiges beibringen kann. Hätte sie ihre letzte mentale Energie in die Muskeln gepumpt, wäre der Gipfel möglich gewesen, aber höchstwahrscheinlich hätte ihr die Kraft gefehlt um ohne Hilfe absteigen zu können und so hätte sie auch ihre Kameraden in Gefahr gebracht. Sie aber ist gesund, sicher und trotzdem allem als Siegerin ins Basislager zurückgekehrt. Ihr Verzicht ist ein kostbarer Faden zwischen den gefrorenen Seilen, welche die immense Wand des Nanga Parbat zeichnen. [...]


[Tamara's Team]
---
Estratto dall'editoriale del Direttore di La Gazzetta dello Sport, Andrea Monti. Fieri di te Tami!
[Il tuo Team]
---
From the article by Andrea Monti, Director of La Gazzetta dello Sport.
[...] The truth is that the risk remains high but that is part of the challenge. The expedition's only woman proved to be the one who managed this the best, the extremely determined Tamara Lunger, who tormented by nausea, decided to stop only a few meters from the summit. Lucid wisdom which has something to teach us.
The summit could have been reached if every residue of mental energy was used to pump through her muscles but she would have probably had no energy left to descend without assistance, consequently putting even her partners in peril.
She returned back to base camp safe and sound and a winner nonetheless. Her decision to quit represents a winning thread in the intertwining of frozen ropes which marks Nanga Parbat's vast face. [...]
[Tamara's Team]


Altitude Pakistan
17 hrs ·
Climbing profile of Muhammad Ali Sadpara:-
As of February 2016, he has made six ascents of four 8000m peaks and is best known for first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Sadpara is first and the only Pakistani to climb an eight-thousander in winter. He also holds the distinction of record three ascents of Nanga Parba

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Re: First Winter Ascent on Nanga Parbat

by Diego Sahagún » Tue Mar 01, 2016 12:05 am

Thanks a lot to all who believed in me/us and, somehow, made possible this NANGA PARBAT (8.126m) FIRST WINTER ASCENT. Descent yesterday was hard but went on without complications. Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger woke up in BC today, obviously fatigued but HAPPY. Here some pictures taken at the top, and some other taken when they reached BC. Thanks for your support!

Alex Txikon's Facebook

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Re: First Winter Ascent on Nanga Parbat

by alpinbeta » Tue Mar 01, 2016 1:59 pm

Simone Moro concludes his fourth winter ascent of a 8000er, after Shisa Pangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009 and Gasherbrum II in 2011. After decades of attempts, Italy's Simone Moro, Spain's Alex Txikon and Pakistan's Ali Sadpara successfully carried out the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan). Italy's Tamara Lunger stopped her bid on the ridge below the summit. Now K2 is waiting, the only 8000er missing to be climbed in winter.

See here Simone Moro Nanga Parbat First winter ascent gallery: http://www.simonemoro.com/?q=en/content/gallery/nanga-parbat

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