I'll be ending a cruise with my non-climbing wife in Venice July 2010 and will then have seven to ten days to myself fro climbing, mountaineering (she's going on a land tour with my daughter at that point). What should I do? Grown and raised in California (you can check some of my history on this site) but never been to Europe. Thought about Mt Blancand/or Matterhorn....or Eiger/Monch....or?????

What would you do? How would you travel? Who would you partner with?

Help! Need advice!

You have plenty of options indeed. I have no doubt that if you get to Chamonix or Zermatt, as long as the weather cooperates, you'll have more climbing opportunities than you can use in a week (or in ten). Matterhorn might not be in condition, though, so it's a bit of a bet. Mont-Blanc should be just fine as long as there's no storm forecast. The whole area will be very crowded, though, and Chamonix in July isn't cheap. You should also book refuges this winter if you plan on using any.
I don't know so well the Grindenwald area, but I'm sure you would find great climbing there as well.

As for transportation, you could fly to Geneva (or Zurich if you are going to Eiger) and then take a bus to Chamonix or Zermatt, or you could take a train to get there. I have done Venice - Geneva in the past, through Milan, it takes around 8h and is quite pleasant.

You would LOVE the Dolomites! Only about 2 hours from Venice.

Thanks for the information. Granted the weather holds, would an Italian via ferrata in the Dolomites and then Mt Blanc be too much? And which of the former would be recommended? And when you say the "normal" or standard routre on Mt Blanc is OK as a solo, is that from the cable car?

Acclimatization would be tough and weather could shut you down, but it could be done.

As for going alone, the Goûter route (which is the "most" normal route) can easily be soloed, it doesn't have much crevasses and zero technical passages. It doesn't have a cablecar, though, only a train that takes you to 2300m.
You could also do the 3 Monts traverse, which starts from the Aiguille du Midi cablecar, 3500m high, so saves you some approach (but summit day is longer). If the route is in good condition and you are comfortable on 50 degrees ice/snow for a short passage, then it is no problem to solo either. I just did it last week, and I would really recommend it over the Goûter if you have the choice, way more interesting and better views.

tdoughty wrote:Thanks for the information. Granted the weather holds, would an Italian via ferrata in the Dolomites and then Mt Blanc be too much? And which of the former would be recommended? And when you say the "normal" or standard routre on Mt Blanc is OK as a solo, is that from the cable car?

Doing both within a week is a bit much - I'd pick one or the other. However, since you are already in Venice, I would recommend doing some things in the Dolomites - less time on your butt traveling and more time in the mountains. There are more options should the weather prove unstable.

moni, what climb in the dolomites?

Will you be alone or have a partner?

Moni, good question! I'm planning on climbing alone, just because I know I can pull that off. My two other options are to hook up with some one (most risky) or to hire a guide ($$$). Would appreciate one suggestion for solo (unroped or via ferratta), and one with a partner. FYI I have done many roped solos in the past, but that doesn't seem quite appropriate for this trip.

How's the Marmolada West Ridge to the Punta Penia Summit?

I would start with looking at the DOLOMITES group page to get an overview. The entire Dolomites are concentrated into an area not much larger than Glacier National Park and getting around by car is easy. The place is amazing - so much to do!

The west ridge route on the Marmolada is a Via Ferrata that is rated as moderate (I have a Via Ferratta guidebook). However, it does require crossing glacier so ice axe and crampons are needed. No clue how crevassed the glacier is and whether it can be safely crossed solo. There are also 2 other Via Ferratas in that area which are rated harder: Ferrata della Trincée on La Mesola (fairly short) and the Ferrata dei Finanzieri on the Colác. ( a bit longer) Neither of them cross glacier.

There also seem to be a big cluster of Ferratas around Cortina d'Ampezzo. Many regular climbs in that area (Tofane Group) as well, many of which are on SP.

Non Ferrata climbs I have done: The Sella Towers are very cool. I am hesitant to tell anyone they can climb something free. However, take a look at Grosse and Kleine Fermeda and make your own judgment. If you base out of St Christina or St Ulrich you have a large array of both climbs and ferratas at your disposal with little or no long approaches if you have a car. About 3 or 4 hours drive from Venice.

During the time you want to be there is prime vacation time for Europeans and especially Italians seeking to escape the heat of the lowlands (you didn't say early or late July - so I will assume late), so you should have reservations for lodging made well in advance.