In case you wanted to climb this route, but didn't want to go alone, we'd take on other hikers for our dates in mid-September. There's just two of us so far, and we'll be going up the SW Couloir route, which is rugged for backcountry approach, but (hopefully) just a Class 3 climb with no glacier and no rappelling or ropes. Email me if interested.

markvotapek "at" netscape "dot" net

p.s. Sorry, i should just post this on the Partners forum, but i get the feeling people don't actively check as much there.

Mark,

I would actually say that Granite Peak on the SW Couloir gets up to at least a class 4 climb even in the best of conditions. I just climbed it in mid-August and there was still too much snow to avoid 5th class climbing so we had to turn around at about 12,400 or so in the couloir. Not sure if it will completely melt out at all this year but maybe. I saw on a summitpost page a claim that an agile dog could climb it--I would have to strongly disagree. If there's a dog that could climb up some of the pitches I had to ascend the owner should really get him into show business. Even before I got up to where snow blocked the way there were parts that were pretty tricky for the typical hiker but for any experienced climber there would probably be no problem. I'm more of a hiker than a climber but I'm comfortable scrambling on semi-exposed terrain. I was caught off guard though after reading descriptions of this being basically a walk up. That said I'm sure I would of made it if the snow had melted out-now I'll just have to go back sometime.

BadgerSummitSeeker wrote:Mark,

I would actually say that Granite Peak on the SW Couloir gets up to at least a class 4 climb even in the best of conditions. I just climbed it in mid-August and there was still too much snow to avoid 5th class climbing so we had to turn around at about 12,400 or so in the couloir. Not sure if it will completely melt out at all this year but maybe. I saw on a summitpost page a claim that an agile dog could climb it--I would have to strongly disagree. If there's a dog that could climb up some of the pitches I had to ascend the owner should really get him into show business. Even before I got up to where snow blocked the way there were parts that were pretty tricky for the typical hiker but for any experienced climber there would probably be no problem. I'm more of a hiker than a climber but I'm comfortable scrambling on semi-exposed terrain. I was caught off guard though after reading descriptions of this being basically a walk up. That said I'm sure I would of made it if the snow had melted out-now I'll just have to go back sometime.

Your experience mirrors mine, Badger. I was up there in 06 and snow/ice forced us onto 4+/easy 5th terrain. It seemed to me that without the snow it would still be 4th class by Rocky Mountain (not Sierra) standards, although it's easier than the East Ridge route.

I agree. Definitely easier than FTD but for sure 4th class climb at the least (unless there's snow up high then 5th class). For anyone who wants to attempt Granite without ropes though this is the only option.

Both of my dogs made it to the summit last year with my wife and I - albeit with a couple of boosts up here and there. Might be 4th class (maybe) but it was certainly easier than Hilgard in the Madisons or Iddings in the Crazy's. Fun climb. What's more, there are several unexplored routes on the south side which originate in the couloir that hold real promise for nice technical climbing. Can't wait to try them.

if you had a climb more than a class 3, then you got off the route up the SW Coulior...it definetly is class 3 scrambling if following the correct route

Comon Badger, many of us, myself included have climbed Granite by both routes, (FTD and SW couloir) without ropes. As pointed out many times on SP, it all depends on your comfort level with climbing on exposed rock. I know people who climb exposed 5.7 and higher without a rope, they just have a much higher comfort level than most of us.
Statements like "the ONLY option" are always dangerous.