Rappels are such an integral part of climbing that little thought is spent about its potential risks. For me at least, if I am in a hurry to get down I have often preferred rappeling to downclimbing because it is so easy and fast. Recently I found out about the real downside risks of rappeling.

A week ago while comfortably descending on the last third of very last rappel of that day's guided climb (Aiguille du Moine) the camming device that attached my rope to the rock dislodged, and I went down airborne in free fall, head first for about 16-18 feet. Miraculously for me, my helmet, my sturdy packback, a snow bridge (where I landed wedged to the rock wall) and sheer luck resulted in my sustaining many bruises but no head injuries or broken bones. My confidence in rappeling and climbing in general were shattered and the experience has given me quite a bit of trepidation about the practice of frequent rappels on descents.

I am curious about others' experiences & thoughts about the risks associated with rappeling.

JanG

Rappeling is dangerous. You should down-climb when it is possible.

Your guide set up a rap station with only one cam placement???? You need to set up a very solid anchor before trusting your life to it.

Thanks for the comments. Your point was very appropriate.

As mentioned, the dislodging of the camming device occurred in the course of one of several rappels which were done because we were running late (the plan was to try to descend all the way to the Montenvers station to catch the last train which entailed about 4 additional hours) and therefore I suspect that some of the additional safety measures were overlooked by the guide with potentially disastrous consequences. I did not personnally evaluate what precise anchors were placed because I had full faith in an otherwise excellent and very experienced guide.

JanG

It is good that you are ok JanG.

I think the big lesson learned here is to double check everything, and call attention to and correct anything that doesn't look right or lacks sufficient protection, no matter how experienced your partner is.

A guide that risks the life of a client to try to get home in time should not be a guide.

You can always tell a neophyte from an experienced climber by their reaction to rapping.

A neophyte is always raving about rappelling.

An experienced climber get a distant look on his face, shakes his head, and mumbles that, regrettably, rappelling is un unpleasant necessity.

Spend enough time in this sport and you will accrue a vast collection of horror stories of rappelling to tell your grand children.

My worst rappels?
-I took off my shoe laces and rapped from them.
-I cut my tubular webbing to make rap anchors, jamming the knots into cracks because I was out of hardware.
-I rapped an overhang at night without a headlamp, it was so dark that I couldn't even see my rap anchors and placed everything by feel alone (you bet I was fucking scared when I weighted the rope)
-I remember one terrifying night in the Cascades, rapping off a peak in the dark while cannonades of rockfall fell all around us. I can still see the sparks and remember the smell... You know what I mean, the smell of rockfall. Smells like death to me.

Rule #1 when rappelling: The anchor must NOT fail.

Provided that is the case one of the biggest dangers of rappelling can be avoided.

Your life depends on the anchor. Using only a single cam is an easy way to get killed or severely injured. You should have confidence in your anchor. If you're unsure about it then you should probably do more to make it bomber. Redundancy is your friend. Research rappel anchors. There are a lot of different ways to set up an appropriate anchor. Some of the simplest anchors (e.g. webbing around a rock pinch) can be the most reliable.

+1 to Rick Kent.

Rapelling always spooks me because the whole thing is an exercise in single point failure. I don't like that. Moving up, you've always got 2, if not 3 or 4 points of contact with the rock. If that flake comes loose, you still probably have other holds. But when rapelling, a failure of any link in the chain - rock, hardware, rope, harness - can mean a fall, likely a BIG one.

You could write a book about elite climbers who completed the climb, only to be done in by the rappel.

I still don't get it, you rapped off a single cam only!????

Thank you for all the constructive criticisms, especially the ones about checking and double-checking the anchors BEFORE starting down on the rappel. I must admit that I put blind faith in the experience of the guide, so that I cannot answer the inquiries about any additional safety besides the camming.

Definitely lessons to guide me for the future.

JanG

About a month ago, A friend of mine, Rapped of the end of the rope.Not sure how he could of done this, but it happened. He fell about 30 feet, and sustainded many injuries, but he is going to make it. This seems to be a common theme in rapping.( Human error) In a pinch I have rappeled off a single piece of pro before, Very bad idea, but somtimes you just have to get down! When time is not a factor, I will double check every knot,partners knot, anchor, and tie knots in the end of the rope,than check again.

Generally the most dangerous part of climbing, you have to rely 100% on your equipment and any errors, objective and subjective hazards can create a lethal mixture.
-Anchor issues (Failure).
-Rope issues (Length, abrasion, cutting, knots, wind-blown mess).
-Device issues (rappel device overheating, carabiner unlocked, backup failure).
-Harness (not properly fastened, attached at wrong point).
-Technique (staying tied-in around anchors, dropping rope, knots at ends, prussick, backup).
-Environment (rock fall, wind, exposure, etc.)

I've already hiked around the cliff for an hour in tight climbing shoes in a downpour instead of exposing myself to unnecessary risks from a rappel, the rap anchor location was too exposed to the elements to reach safely, and if I had, it would have been a complete soggy mess of tangles...

JanG wrote:Thank you for all the constructive criticisms, especially the ones about checking and double-checking the anchors BEFORE starting down on the rappel. I must admit that I put blind faith in the experience of the guide, so that I cannot answer the inquiries about any additional safety besides the camming.

Definitely lessons to guide me for the future.

JanG

No matter how experienced the leader, and how inexperienced you think you are, always double check the system to the best of your ability. If something does not seem right, question it. Risk making dumb observations--it is the smallest risk you will take in rappelling so don't be afraid of it.

ALWAYS "bark" before every rappel...check your buckle, anchor and rappel knot.
I hate rapelling, your life depends on the gear.

Steve1215 wrote:(...) knotting the bottom ends together fixes that, but it eats up rope (...)

you should never never never never never never ever rap without knots in the end of the ropes unless you can make sure (and I mean sure) both ends have reached the bottom. no exception unless you want to risk your life.