Hello All,

My name is Justin, I am a novice climber returning to the fun after almost 15 years away. My limited experience was gained in the Marine Corps in the years before 9/11 when I would spend my spare time hiking and climbing SoCal. I was trained as an assault climber by the Corps and also a HRST master, but that was many moons ago. I want to get active again and get back in shape. I broke two vertebrae in my back while on active duty and it ended my career. My weight went through the roof from a fighting weight of 175 lbs to 260lbs, and I was slowly killing myself with nasty food and no exercise. I rehabbed my back, but was still overweight and out of shape.

I decided to make a change last year and began loosely following a paleo diet, and getting more exercise. I began training in Brazilian Jiu Jitsu, got my weight to 210, and moved my family to Alaska for work. This brings me to the point, I want to get back to climbing and have a dream of one day standing on the summits of Mt Hayes and Mt Deborah at a fit and lean 175 lbs. I see them from my office every day and they call to me, but I am lost as to where I should start? My limited climbing was done with a partner in warm climates, and usually consisted of a lot more abseiling. I know it is a tall order but I am not going anywhere, and neither are the mountains. I am considering taking the 6 day class with AMS in Talkeetna this coming summer, but that is still up in the air. Anyone out there familiar with the north side of the Alaska Range and what peaks near Donnelly Dome would be good for learning and training? Thanks All.

I am not familiar with the Alaska mountains but I'd advise you to take the 6 day class with AMS. They will not only teach you how to travel safely on snow, ice and glaciers, it will put you in the company of experienced people and perhaps some partners. As for training, you'll probably hear about all kinds of methods but one I'used (because of limitations like work, schedule, etc.) that worked for me was simply walking every day. I started out doing 2-3 miles per day and upped it to 4-5 a few months prior to our Mt Rainier climb. I know it doesn't sound like much but added up I was walking over 100 miles per month. Over the course of a year that turned into 1000+ miles. I didn't need any special gear and most of my walks started at home so no driving and most of all, no excuses.

Bob

Thanks Bob, I have been running a couple times a week at my gym and still practicing Brazilian Jiu Jitsu which is an amazing cardio workout. I run 1.5 miles with a very slight incline 1-2%. I can't run outside right now with the cold, ice and wind, although I suppose those might be ideal conditions to train in for acclimation to a summit! I am planning as of now to take both the 6 day class and the Glacier travel/Rescue 2 day course they offer. Those should be interesting, I just finished my First Responder courses and am scheduled to attend a wilderness emergency medicine course in Sept.

I see two strands here: fitness and mountain skills. Regarding mountain skills, I second taking a class taught by professionals. Mine was a 6 day glacier mountaineering class with Alpine Ascents. I contiue to rock climb to keep up with my rope skills. Regarding fitness, I lost 40 lbs and prepared for my glacier class running 3 days per week (easy run, speed/tempo run, long run) based on Running World's smart coach. I also spent 3 days in the gym doing a full body workout described by Clyde Soles in Mountaineering: Training for Peak Performance. I did this in the flatlands of North Texas and had no difficulty with the course.

Getting old, working too many hours, and enjoying way to much beer and bourbon, I have ballooned in weight the last couple years although I have remained reasonably fit and continued to climb (albeit very unsuccessfully). I have rebooted my diet and fitness commitment and am using a similar beginner full body resistance training regimen 2-3 days per week focusing on major muscles groups and their opposites (Bodybuilding. com among others), running 3 days per week (Smart Coach), and yoga 1 day per week. I figure that I need to get back into good fitness before I start looking into more specialty alpine training programs.

You have picked some serious mountains. First off, The Mountain of my Fear and Deborah by David Roberts is a must read. http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Fear-Deb ... 1594856796

Additionally, I wrote an article here to answer the types of questions new climbers often ask. http://www.summitpost.org/alpinism-101- ... ion/756518 You may find it helpful.