Light Alpine Ice Rack

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triyoda

 
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Light Alpine Ice Rack

by triyoda » Fri Nov 04, 2011 1:59 am

Looking to put something together for some easier alpine climbs, like say Huntington gullies. Nothing harder than NEI3, but more mostly NEI2 stuff where you could reasonably solo, but might want a little protection.

I was thinking two snow pickets and 4 screws. Any thoughts on what size screws? Would you bother with any screamers, or just plan to use draws. As I mentioned this would most likely be lower angle ice with a some steps, not real vertical ice.

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divnamite

 
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Re: Light Alpine Ice Rack

by divnamite » Fri Nov 04, 2011 1:52 pm

I probably would skip the snow pickets for north east climbing. Never found snow packs deep and consolidated enough for picket to be useful in my personal experience.
For general NEI/WI 2 in the north east, stuff like Huntington Ravine, North Face of Gothic, Trap Dyke, I wouldn't even bother with pro. But if I have to carry something, then 3 to 4 10CM and 13CM screws should do the job.

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kozman18

 
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Re: Light Alpine Ice Rack

by kozman18 » Fri Nov 04, 2011 4:49 pm

I disagree (slightly) with divnamite about snow pickets. In the easier gullies of Huntington such as, say, Central, the climb is mostly snow which can be deep and hard enough to use a picket. If you want "a little protection," then a picket is really the only choice (no place to put a screw). Even on the tougher climbs in the Ravine, a picket can be useful here or there. Depends a lot on conditions.

But I agree that most of the places you would use a picket can be reasonably soloed, so they aren't critical.

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Kai

 
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Re: Light Alpine Ice Rack

by Kai » Fri Nov 11, 2011 6:43 pm

5 screws and 2 pitons. I would also skip the pickets.

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Autoxfil

 
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Re: Light Alpine Ice Rack

by Autoxfil » Sat Nov 12, 2011 1:36 am

kozman18 wrote:But I agree that most of the places you would use a picket can be reasonably soloed, so they aren't critical.


Bingo.

I agree on the screws - 2-4 of them, 10-13cm.

Bring 2 single-length runners, and 2 double-length. You can often sling rock shrubs on that terrain, so they are nicer than draws. On NF of Gothics I'd bring 1-2 screws and 5-6 slings for simuling, since there are so many trees to tie off. This used to apply to the Trap Dike, not so much anymore.

In the Huntington gullies, rock gear abounds. 3-4 medium-size nuts and/or tri-cams are usually quite useful. For simuling Odell's I used a couple short screws, maybe 4 nuts, and 3-4 slings. That was enough for the whole thing (above the steep ice start, which we belayed).


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