Longs Peak, North Cables Route

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the U.S. Rocky Mountains. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Colorado Climbing Partners section.
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Longs Peak, North Cables Route

by StephenCloudGately » Tue Nov 02, 2010 5:06 pm

I searched the forum for this information but to no avail. Looking at a Feb - March attempt. How are snow conditions usually during these months? For a winter attempt what kind of pro would you recommend for the technical section? About how long is the technical section? Any other information you think might be useful feel free to add. I'd also like to do a lot of easy technical climbs in Colorado this winter and spring so if your looking for a partner PM me, I live down in Flagstaff, AZ currently.

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Re: Longs Peak, North Cables Route

by pyerger » Tue Nov 02, 2010 8:49 pm

Have you tried fourteeners.com? I think there is a few winter trip reports of that route?

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Re: Longs Peak, North Cables Route

by Kiefer » Tue Nov 02, 2010 9:19 pm

The technical section is no more 1/2 to 3/4 of a 'normal' pitch. It's well protected. Expect ice in the cracks and prolly veriglass and crusty snow elsewhere if its not wind-scoured.
It's a COLD climb in the winter. But after the technical section, it's all easy 3rd class scrambling. Dependent on conditions, you might consider staying roped up for another pitch or so.
Just keep in mind, the Diamond is just off to climber's left...prudent footing!
Cables Route makes for a good, quick descent.

Take a look at these reports:
Winter Finale: Long's Peak North Face
Long's Peak- North Face- Winter (Pretty decent)
Long's Peak- Winter

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Re: Longs Peak, North Cables Route

by brenta » Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:23 am

My number one concern for a February-March ascent of the Cables Route would be avalanche danger. Depending on conditions, the face may be safe or just the opposite. With stable snow, the route past the dihedral is quite easy, but an avalanche would likely put you on Mills Glacier.

With enough snow, getting to the base of the dihedral is actually easier than in summer. There are two eyebolts on the dihedral proper--excluding, that is, the ones above the dihedral from which people rappel. You can belay from the lower eyebolt and clip the higher one half-way through the pitch (if they are not buried in snow). In summer, hand-size cams are useful, but in winter you'd have to clean the crack to place them. There may or may not be enough ice for screws.

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