Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
Secor left or Red Rocks to the right? If I'm reading everything right, both routes merge above the gendarme, so I guess I'm just looking for a starting point. But I've seen people swear both directions are better than the other --- also, people rate both sides as 3rd and 4th --- wonky. Can anyone clarify for me? I'll be up there this weekend. Thanks!
I was up there in 2019. There had been substantial rock fall on the old class three route on the left. I eventually found a way up it, but it was class four. Rock quality wasn’t too bad. I took the red rocks on the way down. It was extremely loose, unpleasant, crap. However, it was only class three, and it didn’t seem terribly dangerous.
I was up there in 2020 and intentionally went looking for the Secor Route. The glacier has receded significantly and as Bob P pointed out, it is now class 4 to start. Once on the route, it is standard class 3 and there are still old ducks marking the route.