More than 14 8K peaks

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johnmc3

 
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More than 14 8K peaks

by johnmc3 » Tue May 25, 2010 12:47 am

We all know that there are 14 mountains with summits higher than 8000 meters but a few of them have more than one. For example, Lhotse has three: Lhotse Main 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8383m and Lhotse Middle or East 8413m. I've counted about 23.

Are there any climbers who have climbed them all? Who has the most?

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Damien Gildea

 
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by Damien Gildea » Tue May 25, 2010 1:30 am

I think Um Hong Gil has climbed or attempted Yalung Kang (sub-peak of Kanch) and maybe Lhotse Shar and some others, in addition to his 14 x 8K.

Alberto Inurateggi, also with 14 x 8K, has also climbed Gasherbrum III and almost climbed Gasherbrum IV, a few years ago.

Also Jerzy Kukuzca, 2nd to reach the 14 x 8K, also climbed the West and Central peaks of Shishapangma, on his way to the summit, and also did a traverse of Broad Peak with Kurtyka, thus taking in the North and Central summits of BP.

Of course in 1989 a Soviet expedition did a traverse of the Kanchenjunga summits, including Yalung Kang, but not everybody on the team went to all the summits, they did it in sections.

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Corax

 
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by Corax » Tue May 25, 2010 2:14 am


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visentin

 
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by visentin » Tue May 25, 2010 1:15 pm

I read very often about all those races about the 14 8000ers: first men, first without oxygen, first women, first teenagers (recent...), first winter ascents etc etc..
But I don't understand why, instead of collecting the rest of the peaks from 7999 and below, people keep finding new ways to climb the 14 again and again.
I'm sure if we go backwards into the 7000s soon or late we'll find some naughty peak who will repress all attempts of these pretentious 8000 so-called collectionners.

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Damien Gildea

 
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by Damien Gildea » Tue May 25, 2010 1:31 pm

The 8000ers have become famous brands, and society likes to attain and consume famous brands because they confer status on those who consume them. The more difficult they are to attain, the higher status they confer. The more famous the brands, the more recognisable they are to mainstream audiences and media, so the status can be recognised, validated and capitalisled on more easily in everyday life. ie. you won't get on Good Morning America or Letterman for climbing Jannu, Latok or Hachindar Chish. They have low Brand Recognition Factor, so sponsors see no exposure in them, and hot chicks at cool parties just think you've got something caught in your throat.

Strangely enough, once you go below 8000m you confront some mountains which are very difficult to climb. Gasherbrum 4, Khunyang Chish etc are very steep. Disteghil Sar, Himalchuli and Ngadi Chuli are either difficult or objectively very dangerous. Doing these mountains would add years to the quest of those currently chasing the 8000ers. It's nicer to have a nice neat set which is difficult, but not too difficult, or it would never end! :)
Last edited by Damien Gildea on Tue Jan 11, 2011 12:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Andinistaloco

 
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Re:

by Andinistaloco » Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:18 pm

visentin wrote:But I don't understand why, instead of collecting the rest of the peaks from 7999 and below, people keep finding new ways to climb the 14 again and again.


Hey, I'm climbing peaks 7999m and below!

Seriously though, good point. I noticed the same thing in (of course) Colorado a lot at first, and now other places. Folks bypass an incredible 13,765-foot peak and "climb" Pikes because it's above the magic number. I think tick lists are kind of cool, but occasionally, some folks seem to forget there even are other summits.


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