A group of four of us are looking to trek the Norris Traverse in GNP next month. I've had mixed success following Edwards' routes so I'm wondering if anyone here can give more up-to-date and precise beta on this particular route.

Can strong hikers/backpackers with Class 3/4 climbing abilities suss out this route relatively easily? Are their any serious crux/pitfalls Edwards doesn't mention we should be aware of?

Based on research and map study my biggest concern is locating the correct route up and over Almost A Dog to Gunsight Lake.

Also, wondering which direction is ideal in terms of route finding? I'd rather go with the relatively easier route to safely navigate than be concerned with my predominant views while trekking.

For reference, I've successfully completed the Bad Marriage traverse in a day, and I've climbed Pollack, Oberlin, Appistoki, and a few others I can't remember just now with relative ease. I've twice been turned back on attempts of Bearhat (snow), once on Gould (falling rock), once on Pollock (thunderstorm). I don't want to overstate my skills but I'm reasonably competent and capable in Glacier and so are my partners. We're all backcountry skiers, but I've yet to do any on-foot alpine mountaineering with these folks. I'm the one leading this trip so I'd be more comfortable with a bit more beta if I can get it.

Thanks all. Been viewing this website and forums for a long time now, first time posting. I appreciate your time and input.

I have completed the Norris traverse four times. My experience is that the Gordon Edwards Route description is good. I suggest a south to north route as going that direction makes finding the chute to climb to Almost a Dog Pass easiest. Also I prefer the high route across the Blackfoot Glacier basin.

Thanks Ralph. How would you describe the level of difficulty of retracing Edwards' route descriptions in reverse from Almost a Dog to Red Eagle Lake and the high traverse across the Blackfoot Glacier basin to Almost a Dog? Is it fairly direct and obvious if you're going south to north? He gives those descriptions going north to south.

Also, did you bring or need a rope on any of your trips? He recommends hoisting packs on at least two occasions and also mentions tying off if you encounter snow below the ramp on Almost a Dog. Did you find that necessary?

Very much obliged.

hln wrote:Thanks Ralph. How would you describe the level of difficulty of retracing Edwards' route descriptions in reverse from Almost a Dog to Red Eagle Lake...

Red Eagle Lake? Or the pass? I wouldn't recommend trying to reach Red Eagle Lake or the approach from there. While it's been done the old trail above Red Eagle Lake is hard to follow especially when descending or ascending the big wall below Red Eagle Pass. The Norris traverse is usually begun at Triple divide Pass. The route from that pass to Almost a Dog Pass is straightforward. Finding the ramp from below Logan Glacier to Almost a Dog Pass is much easier from the south.

...and the high traverse across the Blackfoot Glacier basin to Almost a Dog? Is it fairly direct and obvious if you're going south to north? He gives those descriptions going north to south.

I'd say that a competent mountaineer should be able to follow the route in reverse with out difficulty. I recommend the high traverse described in the Climbers Guide.

...Also, did you bring or need a rope on any of your trips? He recommends hoisting packs on at least two occasions and also mentions tying off if you encounter snow below the ramp on Almost a Dog. Did you find that necessary?

We never hauled packs on a rope. There are a few cliffs to climb west of Split Mountain but we climbed them with packs on. On one trip we encountered snow below and in the ramp to Almost a Dog Pass. We reached the bottom of the ramp by going around and above the snow. In the ramp the snow had a moat between the snow and the right side (looking up from the bottom) wall. We used ice axes to cut steps in the wall of snow and used our ice axes for hand holds. That was a late July trip I believe. I recommend doing the traverse after snow has melted out.

As far as a route description, Gordon Edwards assumes you know how to route find in the mountains. His guides are basic descriptions of the route with occasional details thrown in, but it will be up to you to find the safest and easiest path. There will be no "red line" to follow. As in most scrambling situations there are multiple routes and the one you feel is the safest is usually the best one to follow. Pay attention to the description and use a topo map for the details.