Heading up there next weekend for a dayhike via Meysan Lakes trailhead and looking for suggestions on gear. I am thinking a set of nuts, few hexes, and a cam or two. I know there are many "routes" along the North Ridge and just looking for advice on anyone who has done it on what size gear to bring. I prefer to travel as light as possible while still maintaining a margin of safety and having what I need. Thanks.

When I do it next time, I will take 2 links cams for anchors, two or three more cams from 1-2 in, and a set of nuts to 1 in with one 8mm double rope. If you skirt around the third tower (to the left/east), you can get by without a rope with thoughtful route-finding.

Thanks Hamik, that was the size pro I was thinking would be good. I was debating about climbing on either a 9.2mm x 60m single versus single strand of 8.8mm x 50m half rope. What is an approximate time car-to-car?

For the Maysan Lakes approach and the NR, RT times might go from 8-9 hours (fast party) to 12 hours average party to long day for slower people. Time would depend on whether one would belay any pitches and if one hits the route right on. Picking the correct chute while descending helps too.

mtndonkey wrote:Thanks Hamik, that was the size pro I was thinking would be good. I was debating about climbing on either a 9.2mm x 60m single versus single strand of 8.8mm x 50m half rope. What is an approximate time car-to-car?

I'd say you could probably get by on the 8.8, particularly if you double the rope for short sections. If think it's a function of how easy the climb might be considering what you climb at the crags but also whether you intend to climb the ridge more directly or skirt the sides. I soloed it quite a while back and stayed on the right side of the ridge higher up to avoid some of the harder looking stuff. If I went back again, I'd bring a rope and try to stay on the crest more often, which might warrant bringing the fatter line. It looked really fun. I think a single rack of stoppers and two or three larger cams would probably be fine. Lots of slings since you could be wandering around alot.

I recall taking about 8 hrs. car to car, but that was without stopping for belays obviously.

mtndonkey wrote: I prefer to travel as light as possible while still maintaining a margin of safety and having what I need. Thanks.

If you have to ask, then I'd say bring the whole rack.

I soloed it over the weekend of the 4th and was C2C in 8 hours as well. I stuck well to the left side of the crest proper until about half-way up the headwall, where I traversed right to avoid difficulties. I did it in approach shoes with no rope or gear, which definitely sped thing up, but if you aren't confident in soloing exposed 5.4 or trusting your ability to not get into something harder, then I would limit yourself, for speed sake, to 3-4 cams, nothing larger than a BD 2. The link cams would be handy for versatility and you could just self-belay off of runners for sections that you are uncomfortable with (and avoid the rope).

12 hours CTC with no gear for a slow old turd (me).

Sounds good, thanks for the info everyone provided. A set of nuts and a couple of cams sound like they will do the trick. I could solo 5.4 if needed but prefer not to and would rather have the rope and climb harder if we end up a bit off-route (which seems likely). I am really looking forward to checking out the route.

another thing to ponder is the length of your rope. any real technical challenges are real short, and having a short rope is sometime useful, say 80ft. its easier to break out, so you will. plus its easier to coil and carry, so you will.

i have lots of old ropes that i will cut up for just this kind of stuff. even a 50 ft rope will get you through the difficulties.

x15x15 wrote:another thing to ponder is the length of your rope. any real technical challenges are real short, and having a short rope is sometime useful, say 80ft. its easier to break out, so you will. plus its easier to coil and carry, so you will.

That's a good idea I hadn't really thought about. I was planning to bring a 60m x 9.2mm but also thought it might be overkill "most" of the time. I do have some shorter stuff that would fit the bill for this type of climb and going to give it some serious thought. Thanks for the suggestion.