Obligatory Dana Couloir Condition Thread

[Nefsek]

Bonjour mes grimpeurs.

Flying into Cali from the east coast for a few days and wondering what my girl Dana looks like. Anyone climbed the couloir recently? Thanks in advance!

[Rossi]

[url][/url]
Good hard snow, left parking lot about 5AM. Its not full ice yet but good fun, North Peak should be good next weekend.

[artrock23]

After seeing Rossi's pics, and reading the Dana Mt. entry in 'High Sierra', i'm dying to do this route. It seems like the perfect way for me to get back into the groove, after being away from backpacking/mountaineering for 3 decades.

Will crampons and a single ice axe be sufficient to ascend the couloir?

[Vitaliy M.]

Yes in these conditions for sure. But later in the season it gets more and more icy, so hurry up!

[granjero]

It was in excellent ski condition on Saturday for a 3pin and leather ski descent. Wild flowers and solar insolation abounded!

[artrock23]

Thanks for the info!

One more question: where do I find the trailhead to Dana Lakes? My Tom Harrison map doesn't show one, but an old book I have on Yosemite trails does (i'm guessing it's an "unmaintained" trail?). I've heard it's at Tioga Pass.

My plan is to hike in to Dana Lake the first day, and check-out the couloir from the bottom. Early next morning, i'll summit, then descend and hike out.

[Rossi]

I think it might depend on how good you are at climbing. The snow was hard (8AM) and there is some ice on the route. Skiing the route must have been an accomplishment as it is seriously sun cupped and the route is mixed with rocks and ice. I surely did not want to climb the route with a single axe. A fall there would surely mean bad things. That being said maybe the snow is much softer around 12PM, and I may not be as accomplished of a climber as you or others. This may give you a better view of the route.

http://www.summitpost.org/dana-couloir/155574

Here is another view

[sshankle]

Does anyone have an update on Dana or North Peak?

Rossi, great pics! Do you have any more or full res versions somewhere?

Thanks all!

Scott

[mtndonkey]

I was wondering the same thing. We should expand this into a Sierra Ice thread since I think a lot of people interested in Dana are prob interested in some of the other nearby couloirs for the same reasons.

[artrock23]

We should expand this into a Sierra Ice thread since I think a lot of people interested in Dana are prob interested in some of the other nearby couloirs for the same reasons.

I agree.

As it turns out, i'm opting for Mt. Dade instead, since I wanted a longer hike (and shorter drive). I'm curious to see how Hourglass Couloir is. I'll find out this Sunday, and be sure to take some photos.

[bc44caesar]

Dade's Hourglass couloir is mostly suncups. The North Face is in good shape for climbing. Two tools a good idea, easy solo though.

[artrock23]

Indeed, it was a good time, and a great way to get back into the sport again after so many years. The snow was sun-cupped and softer than i'd have liked, but i was fine solo with crampons and a single ice-axe.

Hourglass Couloir, Sunday 8/21/11...

[BMcC]

Posted some links to trip reports for Dana, N Peak, U Notch, and Feather from LAST yr on the Feather Peak (and other) Couloirs) thread...

Conditions are likely different (due to more snow) this yr.

Cheers!

[Princess Buttercup]

Headed up tomorrow. Heard it's been plenty warm this weekend, and North's right side was a bit soggy today. Will post pics and conditions tomorrow night.

[Princess Buttercup]

The warm weekend wasn't particularly kind, but it was just cold enough last night to firm up conditions again today. Gotta say, perfect styrofoam all across the board. Stayed mostly on the left side, including crossing the growing 'schrund, fair amount of debris against the left wall and out a bit into the chute, making for some big pockets which are perfect rest stops. Frontpointed most of the way up, using tools more for balance than anything.

So it's still a bit off until its really ice, but there is some exposed glacier on the bottom right out of the chute to play on if you'd like while you're waiting.

Pics to come tomorrow.