Hey All,

So the Pagoda Clan from Pennsylvania is looking to plan a Colorado adventure to...that's right...Pagoda Mountain. Since we're right there, it would also be nice to attempt Longs Peak. Right now four of us are looking to make the trip out left:

Pops Pagoda
Pagoda Son I
Pagoda Son II
Cousin Pagoda

I'm trying to gather as much beta as I can on Pagoda Mountain. From the few trip reports I've found, it looks like peeps have taken the Glacier Gorge approach through Black Lake and Green Lake, and then up to the saddle Between Pagoda and Longs. The pictures and descriptions I've seen look like you might have to deal with some scree and snow depending on the conditions. It looks like crampons, ice axe, trekking poles, and helmet might get us there. We have general winter hiking and backpacking experience in Pennsylvania, but none of us have ever led or placed protection. I've climbed Mount Muir in CA and also Aconcagua in S. America.

Soo...

- We're not looking for any technical routes and would probably be comfortable (and enjoy) some general Class III scramble. Is this possible, and what are the best routes for this type of ascent? Is there any reason for roping up or protection at any point on the mountain?
- We would likely be climbing in July, maybe August. From what we've read about Long's Peak, it sound like you want to get up and down early to avoid the afternoon thunderstorms. Are there any other weather issues?
- Has anyone tackled both Pagoda and Longs on the same trip? If so, any recommendations or info you can provide on the trip?
- Also, any other must-see's in Rocky Mountain National Park?

We're super stoked and really looking forward to enjoying what CO has to offer!!!

Thanks,

Pagoda Son I

The ascent from Glacier Gorge and the northeast ridge is the easiest and most convenient route to Pagoda Mountain. The approach from Wild Basin and the northeast ridge is about as easy, but it involves quite a bit of bushwhacking. The other routes are technical.

No matter which side you take, reaching the saddle between Longs and Pagoda means negotiating some steep, unstable scree. The south side is worse, but not by much. In a typical July or August you do not need axe, crampons, ropes or gear. The northeast ridge itself is easy class 3 at most.

Climbing Longs and Pagoda in the same day is for the very fit. It's done, often as part of the "Grand Slam," but I've not done it, so I'll let someone else comment on it. (The Grand Slam consists of climbing Meeker, Longs, Pagoda, Storm, and Lady Washington.)

Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August and are better avoided, as you already know, by starting early. It goes without saying that the weather can turn very quickly in the mountains.

All of RMNP is a must-see, and in particular all of Glacier Gorge. If you spend some time in that area, you may want to check out McHenrys Peak.

If you do climb it from Longs, the key is finding the right passage through the cliffbands below the Narrows and above the Pagoda-Longs Saddle.

brenta is right about the gullies leading up to the Keyboard of the Winds..they are quite loose.

The cliffband I was referring to:


The dotted area above (not visible above) from a different angle:


If you come up the correct gully from Black Lake, you'd avoid this. If you come up the wrong one (too high), you may still wind up having to negotiate it.