Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

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matteo_b

 
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Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by matteo_b » Wed Apr 06, 2016 3:26 pm

Hi guys, i am thinking to go to pamir this summer with a friend, our goal is to climb Korjenevskaya. I'm obviously having some trouble.

at first i wanted to do everything by myself (even walk in somehow, but my friend don't have the time for that adventure and i don't think i will be able to find someone who wants to do the same approach) (btw, if you have any info about this trail, PLEASE let me know!). .. but then..

Problem is that i can't find how to book the helicopter without passing through an agency, so i think that at the and we are going in that direction. Can anyone give me some advice about which company i should use? Actually i only want the helicopter and very very very basic services at base camp (don't want hotels, taxi, tents, kitchen, guides, ropes, timetables and stuff like that.). I already asked one company but they say that they stopped to organize expeditions to korjenevskaya due to problems with helicopters and other reasons. (i'm a bit worried about that). Please don't tell me to go to pik lenin instead :lol: . Any kind of advice is very helpful.


and.. Do you think it might be possible to find climbing partners in base camp? i was thinking to stay 2 weeks more after my friend leaves.. but don't want to organize that in advance since i don't know how am i going to feel after those three weeks.






Thanks for any info.


M

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bserk

 
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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by bserk » Wed Apr 13, 2016 2:17 pm

Hi Matteo,

a friend of mine also tried to organize a tour to Korjenevskaya through an agency. They also had to cancel their trip due to issues with the base camp set-up.

Why not try Pobeda with an agency that provides base camp services only like Ak-Sai?

BR

S

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matteo_b

 
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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by matteo_b » Wed Apr 13, 2016 3:23 pm

Hi bserk.. i think Pobeda is a little bit too much as a first 7000 for me..
i hear it's often unclimbable and i don't have real experience with Asian mountaineering to judge it properly, and i don't really want to climb with a guide. And i have to say that the pamir-hindu kush-karakorum area is very attractive to me.. And, more important, i might need to buy more techical equipment since i read that is an extremely cold mountain!

do you know what were the issues they had in details?

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Yury

 
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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by Yury » Sat Apr 16, 2016 11:59 pm

bserk wrote:a friend of mine also tried to organize a tour to Korjenevskaya through an agency. They also had to cancel their trip due to issues with the base camp set-up.S
I am not sure I understand this.
Isn't the same base camp used for both Kommunism and Korzhenevskaya?

Peak Lenina is the easiest and cheapest 7000 m option because you can drive to a base camp.
At the same time Pobeda, Kommunism and Korzhenevskaya require a helicopter ride.

Pobeda is the hardest one. In case of a bad weather, there is a chance that nobody is able to reach its summit that year.

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bserk

 
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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by bserk » Tue Apr 19, 2016 11:55 am

Yury wrote:
bserk wrote:a friend of mine also tried to organize a tour to Korjenevskaya through an agency. They also had to cancel their trip due to issues with the base camp set-up.S
I am not sure I understand this.
Isn't the same base camp used for both Kommunism and Korzhenevskaya?

Peak Lenina is the easiest and cheapest 7000 m option because you can drive to a base camp.
At the same time Pobeda, Kommunism and Korzhenevskaya require a helicopter ride.

Pobeda is the hardest one. In case of a bad weather, there is a chance that nobody is able to reach its summit that year.


Yep, they share BC and Pobeda is said to be the hardest one.

@Matteo: Maybe you should go for Lenin (I'll be there this summer :D )

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Damien Gildea

 
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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by Damien Gildea » Fri Apr 22, 2016 2:55 am

Matteo,

Don't go to Pik Lenin ;-)

I don't know about specific helicopter issues with Korz & Comm but I do know they had a bad food poisoning / e-coli outbreak at the BC a year or two ago. I think business has been down there for a few years, for various reasons.

If you want to go to Tajikistan, you could go to Pik Karl Marx (6720m), down near the Afghan border. It's quite high, there are no real permit costs and an agency in Dushanbe can organise it for you. The main cost is a long jeep ride down there. You can hire horses to carry gear in from the road, or do it yourself in a couple of days. The normal route from the southwest is not too difficult, but harder than Lenin and far, far fewer people.

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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by matteo_b » Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:47 pm

Damien Gildea wrote:Matteo,

Don't go to Pik Lenin ;-)

I don't know about specific helicopter issues with Korz & Comm but I do know they had a bad food poisoning / e-coli outbreak at the BC a year or two ago. I think business has been down there for a few years, for various reasons.

If you want to go to Tajikistan, you could go to Pik Karl Marx (6720m), down near the Afghan border. It's quite high, there are no real permit costs and an agency in Dushanbe can organise it for you. The main cost is a long jeep ride down there. You can hire horses to carry gear in from the road, or do it yourself in a couple of days. The normal route from the southwest is not too difficult, but harder than Lenin and far, far fewer people.




Thank you Damien. Don't worry, i'm not going to pik Lenin for sure!

We already have made research about Pik karl Marx in the last few weeks. I read anything i could find about the area and it looks really interesting and i quite like the idea, and also my friends.
Now our latest idea is going to explore the Buni Zom area of the hindu kush, which is not even that far from karl marx but is in northern pakistan. There are flight to chitral now so my friends can save time for the approach (not me for sure.. i have time and want to enjoy every kilometer..). I already sent many email and have a good idea about how to organize something there.. but soon i will also make a plan for Karl Marx area in case something prevent us to go in Pakistan. Have you been to Karl Marx?

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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by Damien Gildea » Mon Apr 25, 2016 4:34 am

matteo_b wrote:...but soon i will also make a plan for Karl Marx area in case something prevent us to go in Pakistan. Have you been to Karl Marx?


No, but I looked into it a few years ago as a possible addition to my Lenin trip. I think it was maybe around USD$1000 per person for the long jeep ride from Dushanbe to the roadhead, via Khorog? But there were no other costs.

Be careful in Afghanistan... http://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-04-19/a ... an/7335510

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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by matteo_b » Thu Apr 28, 2016 7:59 pm

1000$ USD per person for a jeep ride seems a lot.. do you mean 100$?

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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by Damien Gildea » Sat Apr 30, 2016 2:55 am

No. It's a very long ride :|

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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by matteo_b » Wed May 04, 2016 7:16 pm

urgh.. 1000$ per person! I didn't know in asia was possible to find something that expensive. We can almost buy our own car! ahaha.

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Yury

 
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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by Yury » Thu May 05, 2016 4:16 pm

Historically there was a steady traffic of cargo trucks to Horog.
So people were mostly hitchhiking.
Last time I paid 10 rubles for a similar ride.
Based on the current exchange rate it would be about $0.15 USD. :)

Just learn a bit of Russian/Kyrgys/Tadzhik language and save some money:
- hitchhike to Horog
- hire a local truck to a base camp

You also need to learn about a place:
- where truckers stop to get some paying passengers
- where people wait for trucks to stop and pick them

In case your knowledge of local languages is limited, it makes sense to get local assistance to put you on a truck and to meet you at Horog.
Still it would be much cheaper than $1000.

Be adventurous.

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Re: Pamir Korjenevskaya 2016.. questions!

by matteo_b » Fri Jun 17, 2016 5:33 pm

thanks for everybody help. Plans have change and in three weeks i'll be going to karakoram. I'll save those good info for next year!


Thank you


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