Rented boots for Rainier climb. They ended up being a brand new pair. Pulled the packing out myself.
2 hours into climb, developed pretty intense hotspot on medial aspect of my heel.
Duct tape and other remedies, but left wondering why it happened so quickly.

During fitting I went from my size(13) to 13 1/2 at the advice of guide.
Heel slipped up and down, but I thought that was probably expected due to the inflexible nature of these boots.
Looking for thoughts on cause and prevention.
Going back up in September and want a better boot experience.

Below is a list if what I thought it might be:
No liner sock
Thick Smartwool sock( too thick)
New boot
Noob in plastic boots(technique)
Sizing
Thanks for your help

Plastic boots are ancient technology... there are several great soft double boots out there, surely someone will rent you a pair.

I can't really speculate too much as to why those boots gave you hot spots, though I'd guess they just didn't fit well. If you did it in July, your feet were probably too hot also (sweaty). At least, that's what happens to me (I'm very prone to blisters).

Next time try pre-taping your heels (before you even start hiking). I use this stuff, which is expensive but stays on for days:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KU ... UTF8&psc=1

If you wait till you've already got blisters/hot spots, it's too late.

Thanks for the replies.
I will definitely pre-tape.
Any suggestions for soft/leather double boots?
One of our guides had leather boots.
I would consider buying some if I thought I would get a better fit.

My first question would be where are you going climbing that you need double boots? The only time I wear doubles is for skiing. They are not needed for anyplace in the lower 48, and I thought they were a waste in both South America and summer in Alaska.

Tru dis.. unless you're climbing really big, really remote stuff, or climbing in the winter, you don't need a double. I took a pair of super lightweight uninsulated leathers up Rainier last September. I sported those boots down to around 15F on other peaks, and the summit of Rainier seems to stay at or above 32ish through the summer.

I now use BungaPads after reading this one by Dow Williams:

http://www.summitpost.org/outdoor-gear/ ... l-pad/1378

Ben Beckerich wrote:Plastic boots are ancient technology... there are several great soft double boots out there, surely someone will rent you a pair.

I'm not sure I understand. I realize that plastic double boots like Scarpa Invernos, Lowa Civettas, and Koflach Artics Extrems have been largely replaced by lighter, more nimble boots like the La Sportiva Spantik, LS Batura, and Scarpa Phantom, but these boots also have a plastic outer shell and a insulating foam liner and in some cases an integrated super gaitor. Are the new boots not still plastic double boots, just a newer generation?

Cooksomerice wrote:Going back up in September and want a better boot experience.

For the best possible experience you should buy a quality pair of insulated, leather, full shank all mountain boots. La Sportiva Nepal Top Evo and Scarpa Mont Blanc are two excellent examples. You might be able to get by with lighter boots, but these will give you a margin of safety should it be cold. September on Rainier can be warm and dry or it can be cold and wet. Also, these boots will last many, many seasons and will be great for waterfall climbing, winter alpine climbing, climbing in the Alps, Canadian Rockies, Mexican volcanoes and pretty much anywhere short of expeditionary climbing.

Most people can get a good fit out of either La Sportiva or Scarpa; GENERALLY, LS fits narrower feet while Scarpa fits wider feet. There are other good brands as well including Asolo, Kayland, Lowa, etc. Fit is key. Try them on with the sock combo you plan on climbing with. Most climbers find a thin liner sock and a thick insulating sock to be the best combo. I like merino wool liners because they don't stink like poly/nylon ones. If you don't have a good gear shop nearby, you can order a bunch of different brands, models and sizes of boots from Zappos.com and return the ones you don't want. Free shipping both ways. Make sure you keep the tags on and wear them in the house. Repeatedly kick stair risers to simulate step kicking and front pointing. Your toes should not touch the boots. Walk up and down stairs. The heel should not slip. If you have hard to fit feet and can't get a perfect fit from any brand, get a boot with wiggle room in the toes and have a cobbler add padding around the ankle to lock it down if heel slip is a problem.

You should get the boots ASAP and start hiking in them. You'll break the boot in and discover where you need to prophylacticly tape. On the mountain keep your feet dry. Clean and wax the boots with Nikwax or similar wax to maintain water repellancy. Change socks every day. Gold Bond foot powder is nice. On Rainier take the boots off and pull the insoles out to dry them after the approach. Dry your wet socks on your stomach as you sleep, while wearing your spare dry socks. Rotate the two pairs every day so you always have a dry pair on.

ExcitableBoy wrote:

Ben Beckerich wrote:Plastic boots are ancient technology... there are several great soft double boots out there, surely someone will rent you a pair.

I'm not sure I understand. I realize that plastic double boots like Scarpa Invernos, Lowa Civettas, and Koflach Artics Extrems have been largely replaced by lighter, more nimble boots like the La Sportiva Spantik, LS Batura, and Scarpa Phantom, but these boots also have a plastic outer shell and a insulating foam liner and in some cases an integrated super gaitor. Are the new boots not still plastic double boots, just a newer generation?

Some have a plastic shell, some do not. Before you posted, I'd been under the impression that the Sportiva boots were softies, but apparently at least the Spantik does have an insulated plastic shell... dont know about the Baruntse. I gave up on trying to wear Sportiva boots, so I have limited experience with them. But the Scarpa 6,000 and Vasque Radiators, for instance, are non-plastic doubles.

mconnell wrote:My first question would be where are you going climbing that you need double boots? The only time I wear doubles is for skiing. They are needed for anyplace in the lower 48, and I thought they were a waste in both South America and summer in Alaska.

I simply went off the gear list provided by the guide service I hired. The required double plastic boots whether rented or owned.

Ben Beckerich wrote: But the Scarpa 6,000 and Vasque Radiators, for instance, are non-plastic doubles.

Are they leather then?

The hot spot discussed above was a real issue that quickly became a side issue to my GI problems.

I had to bail on my attempt at Mt. Rainier last week after just 1 1/2 hours on the trail. Barely made it to Pebble Creek before turning back due to intense stomach cramps and nausea. Shortly after I made the decision to turn around, I threw up breakfast, twice.
I was falling way behind the group and the guide who stayed behind with me put pressure on me to continue quickly or turn back. I had little choice as I was doubling over in pain every few seconds and could not stomach water or food which was a big concern.

I contribute the problems I had to multiple causes:

Off my regiment of fiber supplement for 2 days, which I have taken daily for years.
Ate two ethnic meals in Seattle the day before ( not a typical meal for me).
Too much caffeine.
Tight waist strap on my backpack that was intensifying the cramps.
possibly nerves. I was not scared, I was physically well prepared, but I was pretty amp-ed up the day before and the morning of the climb, so I cant fully discount the possibility that nerves caused my upset stomach.

Now for "other questions":

What/How do you eat the day before and the morning of a big climb?

What do you do to settle nerves or anxious energy before a big climb?

Regarding Boots, I wouldn't go so far to characterize double plastic boots as ancient but the newer, cutting edge is the insulated boots with the flexible outer boot. I did Rainier June 14 and I wore Koflach Arctis double plastics. I picked them up on-line for about $200. I checked out the new boots, with the integrated gaitors that our guides were wearing....about $1,000 at Whittaker Mountaineering. My feet were just fine with the old technology at a fraction of the price.

I learned from my Garmont A/T boots to always tie the laces on the insulated liner pretty tight to keep the liner snug to your foot and to keep it from slipping or rubbing. Pre-taping pressure points is good if you've worn the boots enough to know where those pressure points are. As noted above fit is super important. Too tight and you can compress your toes and restrict good circulation. Too loose and you get the slipping and rubbing.

For Food the day and the morning before a big outing, I suggest eating what your body is used to and that you know usually agrees with your system. I don't eat a big breakfast everyday but I typically do eat a pretty hearty breakfast on the weekends. So before a big outing I like to fortify myself with a breakfast burrito or other traditional country breakfast fare. The day before a big hike is not a good time to try out something you haven't eaten before at restaurant you haven't been to before. But sometimes when you're traveling to a distant mountain it's hard to avoid.