by nevada99 » Fri Feb 27, 2015 10:49 pm
by Kurt Wedberg » Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:05 am
by Marcsoltan » Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:59 am
nevada99 wrote: "Alternatively, you may be able to hike 100-300 feet west from the top of U-Notch and look for weaknesses in the northwest-facing rock. Summitting is possible this way, and potentially easier, but the route finding is more difficult." Has anyone climbed this "alternative" route from the U-Notch? If so, can you briefly describe the climb and routefinding?
by bobpickering » Wed Mar 04, 2015 5:46 pm
by Kurt Wedberg » Wed Mar 04, 2015 6:00 pm
Ha ha ha... yes I could see this part of the route being given a 4th class rating. It's a great example of how subjective ratings can be. When my father climbed the East Buttress of Whitney in the 1950s he said it was 4th class with one 5.1 move. It's now 5.7 on most people's published beta. The 3rd Pillar of Mt. Dana used to be 5.9 and it's now 5.10b.bobpickering wrote:The first time I did Polemonium Peak from the U Notch, I just scrambled up and back down in boots. Of course, it was only class 4 (according to Roper) back in 1990. Secor bumped it up to 5.2, and now it appears to be 5.6. You had better get up there soon. It’ll be 5.8 any day now.
by willytinawin » Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:53 pm
by bobpickering » Fri Mar 06, 2015 8:39 pm
Kurt Wedberg wrote:I'd rather tell someone it's 5.6 and have it be easy for them than tell them it's 4th class and find out they got terrified by the exposure .
by Kurt Wedberg » Mon Mar 09, 2015 5:30 pm
bobpickering wrote:Kurt Wedberg wrote:I'd rather tell someone it's 5.6 and have it be easy for them than tell them it's 4th class and find out they got terrified by the exposure .
I've hear that argument before, and I must disagree. When you tell people that an easier route is 5.6 (or 5.8 or whatever), they think they can climb 5.6 or 5.8. Then they go somewhere else and try a "real" 5.6 or 5.8 and get "terrified by the exposure" or worse. Ratings are only useful if they are consistent.
by bobpickering » Mon Mar 09, 2015 6:54 pm
Kurt Wedberg wrote:One of my favorite names of a climb is in Owens River Gorge called "Valley 5.8". It's a fun climb rated 5.10b in the Gorge but if it was in Yosemite Valley it'd be a 5.8.
by Kurt Wedberg » Tue Mar 10, 2015 4:47 pm
bobpickering wrote:Remember, the ratings system we all use today is the “Yosemite Decimal System”, and it’s supposedly based on Yosemite Valley climbs. 5.9 was thought to be the hardest route a human could climb. It’s really too bad that climbers knowingly overrate so many climbs, because this renders the YDS meaningless.
by MoapaPk » Thu Mar 12, 2015 3:37 pm
by willytinawin » Thu Mar 12, 2015 4:33 pm
by bobpickering » Thu Mar 12, 2015 6:36 pm
by MoapaPk » Thu Mar 12, 2015 8:08 pm
by nevada99 » Mon Mar 30, 2015 6:11 pm
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