I've been climbing some easier North Carolina trad routes in Trango S Evos as part of training for a trip to the Alps next summer. I'm wondering what they are capable of on the right feet. What's the most technical route you ever climbed in them?

Somewhere around NEI 4

The stiffness makes them pretty good for edging, but I'd hate to smear. Most of all though, I already sweat way too much on a climb...

A lightweight boot like the Trango S Evo would not be my choice for big routes in the Alps, not nearly warm and waterproof enough, but it depends upon your objectives. As long as you stay off the glaciers and out of the snow you should be fine. But then, why not wear approach shoes and climb in rock shoes? Or wear Trangos for the approach and climb in rock shoes?

But to answer your question, I had a pair of Trango Extremes and they could climb as hard as I needed them to - 5.10 on alpine rock (not nearly as hard on pure friction slabs though), WI5+, M5. I hated the floppy ankles though, I guess if you climb hard ice/mixed they are supposed to be helpful.

Damn, I bet its hard as hell to climb most trad routes here with Trango's... Where are you climbing at btw? Heading up to the gorge next week to climb in the amphitheater for a few days.

Alpine rock routes tend to be blocky and the climbing less sustained than many cragging areas. I think slabby granite routes would be super hard in boots. I intentionally practiced climbing in my boots at the UW Rock and at indoor gyms. Got some odd looks by climbers who had never climbed in the mountains, or even 'trad' routes for that matter.

I'm a mediocre climber but I've climbed 5.9 rock (blocky granite trad pitch) and AI3 in Trango S Evos. I have not tried harder water ice in them as they aren't very stiff and have no insulation.

If you like the Trangos you might want to look at the Scarpa Rebel Pro or Ultra boots. They are somewhat insulated and have a carbon fiber insole which is specially shaped so they are very stiff from heel to inside front toe for front pointing and edging but more flexible on the outside edge so they are better for walking than most stiff boots. I have the Rebel Carbons which are no longer made but have similar design (other than being uninsulated and really light) and they are stiffer but also lighter and more comfortable for walking than the Trangos on my feet.

eastcoastarmy wrote:Damn, I bet its hard as hell to climb most trad routes here with Trango's... Where are you climbing at btw? Heading up to the gorge next week to climb in the amphitheater for a few days.

I followed some routes around Table Rock, the North ridge and something I'm told was the Cave route and Block route. Did the nose on Looking Glass with a French free move or two. After the smooth granite of Looking Glass I think I could manage The Prow and the Daddy with the much more grippy footing.

JHH60 wrote:I'm a mediocre climber but I've climbed 5.9 rock (blocky granite trad pitch) and AI3 in Trango S Evos. I have not tried harder water ice in them as they aren't very stiff and have no insulation.

If you like the Trangos you might want to look at the Scarpa Rebel Pro or Ultra boots. They are somewhat insulated and have a carbon fiber insole which is specially shaped so they are very stiff from heel to inside front toe for front pointing and edging but more flexible on the outside edge so they are better for walking than most stiff boots. I have the Rebel Carbons which are no longer made but have similar design (other than being uninsulated and really light) and they are stiffer but also lighter and more comfortable for walking than the Trangos on my feet.

I must have feet made for Trangos. With Superfeet green insoles and Smartwool socks, I've never had a blister including on a 13 mile hike in Glacier Park last September.

JHH60 wrote:
I must have feet made for Trangos.

La Sportiva generally fits people with narrow feet better while Scarpa fits people with wide feet better. I used to put up with the narrow fit of La Sportivas because they make such fine boots and shoes, but sometime after turning 40 my feet grew even wider so they are no longer an option. I get a better fit from Scarpa and an excellent fit with Kayland which fits my wide forefoot and medium to narrow heal extremely well.

I have found that Scarpa boots and shoes are made every bit as well as La Sportiva, but lag behind in terms of innovation. The one pair of Kayland's I own (Super Ice Pro GTX) so far are superior to every other La Sportiva and Scarpa single leather mountaineering boot I have owned. Only time will tell if they are as durable.

Yeah I bet the prow wouldn't be too bad, might be a few dicey spots on the daddy up around 4 & 5, sounds like fun though! Stoked to go climb out West next year... I bet the trangos help with all the damn moss over the walls haha

Climbed everything Wi6 and M8 and below in the same kind of boots like the LS. I have the Scarpa version because I found them on a huge sale for maybe 50% of their price.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cm6kPslOA18

eastcoastarmy wrote:Yeah I bet the prow wouldn't be too bad, might be a few dicey spots on the daddy up around 4 & 5, sounds like fun though! Stoked to go climb out West next year... I bet the trangos help with all the damn moss over the walls haha

I think the West will open your eyes. Lichen is more prevalent than moss in the alpine, that is for sure. Moss is at some of the lowland, Western Washington/Western Oregon crags, but that gets cleaned off by frequent traffic.