Hello,
I'm just wondering what people's thoughts are on using aluminum crampons for Liberty. I have a pair of CAMP XLC crampons and like the weight savings vs. my steel ones. However I've only used them on snow, not actual ice.

thoughts?

thanks!

My thinking is, you always want to bring hardware that will do the job in all conditions.

Liberty Ridge can be a snow slog, or it can be a rather significant ice climb. Depends on the time of the year and the snow levels that season.

So if I was going again, I would absolutely bring good steel alpine crampons.

Thank you for the response, we're going the second week of june. But yea, better to be safe with the proper gear.

No, stick with 12 point steel crampons. The weight saving is significant (my aluminum crampons weigh 1 lb., my steel ones weight 2 lbs.) but the weight penalty is worth it for such a critical piece of your kit. I don't even use aluminum crampons on the normal routes on Rainier. You can run into glacial ice, which, take my word for it, is miserable in aluminum crampons.

A lot of my weight conscious climbing partners build their own hybrid crampons with an aluminum rear piece mated with a steel front piece. You save 1/2 pound, but still have the security of steel front points.

Aluminum wears down too fast. After a very bad experience on hard ice, I've permanently retired them. Steel only for me.

On moderate alpine routes steel is over rated unless you are going through mixed terrain, ice, or are lazy about taking off your crampons. Note that I will literally crawl on my hands and knees to preserve my aluminum crampons if it's a balance between saving time and not hurting my babies. A great compromise crampon is the Camp XLC Nanotech (1 lb 0.9 oz per pair). Aluminum with reinforced steel tips. The only down side is that it's expensive.

I have to disagree with Josh. I think aluminum crampons have their place, mainly for ski mountaineering and on approach shoes for alpine rock routes, but I have been burned too many times with aluminum crampons to view them as appropriate for alpine climbs.

In mid September we were making the final approach to the SW Buttress of Eldorado Needle. I was wearing aluminum crampons and the final approach was a decent on bare, 30 degree, down sloping glacier ice. The descent with my aluminum crampons (new and as sharp as they ever will be), was a fairly harrowing experience.

The other one that comes to mind is descending the mild Colchuck Glacier in mid August after climbing the NE Buttress. (One of the finest alpine rock climbs in the Stuart Range for its grade). A father and son both lost their lives when they slid to their deaths in the boulders at the bottom one year. My partner had steel crampons over tennis shoes, I had aluminum crampons over lightweight mountaineering boots. He picked the far side of the glacier, I picked the opposite side. I'm not sure who had it better, but I was envious watching him confidently stomp his steel spikes in the bare glacial ice, while my aluminum crampons skittered off.

These were both alpine rock climbs with very moderate, short, and relatively mild glacier crossings. I can't imagine what a nightmare climbing a beast like Rainier would be in icy conditions wearing aluminum crampons. Mid September, a partner and I climbed Rainier after the first snowfall of the season. It left perfect neve, and my partner wearing aluminum crampons completely lucked out - conditions were perfect and his crampons were adequate. I suppose my message is it is very condition dependent. For something like Liberty Ridge, I still wouldn't ever wear aluminum crampons. MAYBE, aluminum rears and steel fronts. Maybe.

The terrain on Liberty Ridage is extremely varied. You may run into a few different snow and ice conditions within the same pitch. My wife and I use aluminum crampons for hiking around national parks in winter, but when it comes to a serious climb like Liberty Ridage, 12 point steel crampons are the only way to go.

ExcitableBoy wrote:I have to disagree with Josh...

In mid September we were making the final approach to the SW Buttress of Eldorado Needle.

I guess I didn't make my exception scenario obvious enough.

Josh Lewis wrote:unless you are going through mixed terrain, ice

Also note that I wouldn't want to use aluminum crampons on something like Liberty Ridge. Steel is better for later season snow/ice as well as steep routes. Been using steel for years and finally made the conversion to aluminum last year, I don't regret it one bit!

Thanks guys, I'm going to try frankenstein-ing steel fronts with alum backs and test them out locally before Liberty.

Please report back on the results. Been thinking about doing this.

buckie06 wrote:Thanks guys, I'm going to try frankenstein-ing steel fronts with alum backs and test them out locally before Liberty.

There are online stores that sell both steel and aluminum back and front pieces for various campons. I would recommend buying the same brand and model for optimum compatibility. For example, Grivel Air Tech make both aluminum and steel versions. I'm not saying I recommend Grivel Air Techs, as I think there are better choices for alpine climbing, but are an example. https://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Grivel-Air-Tech-NM-NC-Front---Pair---Spare-Parts_10214984_10208_10000001_-1_?cm_mmc=PLA-_-GooglePlusBox-_-Grivel-_-Grivel-Air-Tech-NM-NC-Front---Pair---Spare-Parts_GooglePlusBox&utm_source=GooglePlusBox&utm_medium=PLA&ad_id=GooglePlusBox&utm_campaign=Grivel-Air-Tech-NM/NC-Front---Pair---Spare-Parts&scid=scplp1560947&sc_intid=1560947&ad_id=Google&kcid=fe0ca984-ea2a-4883-9043-51b100033e50&utm_medium=PPC&utm_source=GOOGLE&utm_campaign=SC%2BShopping%2B-%2BDesktop&utm_term=&lsft=adtype:pla,channel:online&gclid=CM_qxbuP3NMCFQt3fgodr68NFw http://www.barrabes.world/grivel-air-tech-light-cramp_o_matic/p-69174?idvariedad=282424&opt=d&utm_source=Google.eeuu&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_campaign=producto&gclid=CO-uuJeQ3NMCFReVfgoduAsAnQ