Hi All,

I am looking to potentially do a guided climb of Triglav in April next year via the easiest route & have a few questions. I would really appreciate any help / advice.

How technical is the easiest route to the summit in April? I am comfortable with via ferrata & easy scrambling & have experience with snow climbing with crampons, but nothing technical.

Also, what is the best way to get to the mountain? I will be flying from London so what would the nearest airport be?

Thanks in advance

MD

Seeing this post, I expected some of the Slovenian SP-members to answer, but since they haven't (not yet, anyway), I'll add my two cents.

I've only been to Slovenia once, and that was in August, but I've been all over the Alps, including some winter trips. High up in the mountains, in April everything is still very much in winter conditions. The temperature may well be above freezing, which means soft snow, but just as easily everything can be frozen solid. You'll definitely want to bring crampons. I would bring my ice axe too. And depending on the actual conditions I would also pack snow shoes (skis may be better, but outside the manicured slopes my skiing skills are not good enough). You'll have to find out what you need shortly before heading out. If you're going with a guide, he will know.

When I was on Triglav, there was no snow anymore. I found the ascent (normal route from the Vrata Valley, via Kredarica and Planika) easy for a climber, hard for a hiker. There was a cable, and you can use it (I don't remember, but since it was there, I probably did). However, I would hardly call it a proper via ferrata; more like an easy scrambling route with a steel cable for comfort, and for security for the inexperienced and those that don't like exposure. Being comfortable with easy scrambling, you should find yourself well capable to ascend Triglav without cable. Based on all that, I don't expect real difficulties with snow and ice either. Depending on how much snow there still is in April, the cable can easily be buried. With a guide, he'll have you roped up then, at least on the final part of the ascent.

For my descent, I chose the Bambergova route to Luknja and the Zadnjica valley. It was a fine route, but I'm not sure if that would be a good idea in winter: it's decidedly harder, in particular above Luknja. On some of the very steep secured sections I was glad I could use my via ferrata gear.

Finally, there is the route via Koca na Dolica, which is comparable to or slightly easier than the normal route from Vrata.


The nearest airport is Lubljana. Klagenfurt (Austria), is also conveniently close, but currently there are no direct flights to and from the UK. A little further away but with excellent train connections are Salzburg (Austria) and Venice (Italy).

rgg - thanks for the details. I guess I'll broaden the question. I'm flying over to Germany in April and on the hunt for a solid Alpine route, Ice Axe/Crampons, Steep Couloirs, snow climbs, etc.. we were looking at that region as an option (only 7 hours drive). Are there other routes/areas in condition in April that I should be thinking about?

Het Vulcan, in case you still want to make it to Slovenia (Triglav), I suggest you to get in touch with Mitja a local mountain guide who offers winter climbing there. Check this out : https://www.explore-share.com/trip/mount-triglav-guided-winter-climb/. He is really really nice and will arrange the best plan for you. I will be ski touring with him later this year, in the Julian Alps (4 day ski traverse). Another option for you if you fly to Germany is to go to the Garmisch area (south of Munich) at the border with Austria. This article will tell you the different possibilities in terms of mountain sports https://www.explore-share.com/blog/trip-mountains-south-germany/. Have fun !!

How was your Europe Trip? Was it fun?
I was in Austrian Alps in April 2 years ago though not for climbing, for skiing, so can’t advise you any route but I must say that there is much snow even in early April, but the locals say every year is different (and also depends on region). Please tell how you trip went. I would like to go to Europe again for a longer stay and, probably, in summer, and have some drive around.
Alps region is really charming and inspiring at any time of the year, Austrian ski resorts look magic: https://tranio.com/traniopedia/tips/cosy-cabins-and-snow-glazed-slopes-austrian-alpine-ski-resorts-to-live-and-invest-in_5294/