by OwenMB123 » Tue Feb 14, 2017 8:07 pm
by rgg » Wed Feb 15, 2017 11:40 pm
by Fletch » Thu Feb 16, 2017 12:42 am
by WyomingSummits » Thu Feb 16, 2017 1:56 am
by OwenMB123 » Thu Feb 16, 2017 6:27 pm
by rgg » Thu Feb 16, 2017 9:44 pm
OwenMB123 wrote:What I meant by joining a group was that, if there were others who had experience climbing Mont Blanc or other similar mountains and wanted someone to join them I would be looking for that.
OwenMB123 wrote:What is the best way to go about finding people and groups like that?
OwenMB123 wrote:Also, I don't have the money to pay for a guide, I checked and they are usually in the range of about £2000. I have read that it is manageable for people with my experiences, if the correct skills are learnt and practiced. But what is the best way to learn these skills so I can join an experienced group going?
by clmbr » Fri Feb 17, 2017 12:03 am
Amen to that! And this applies to many other popular glaciated mountains.rgg wrote:Oh, and if you happen to come across like-minded people that, like you, don't have sufficient experience, I strongly advise not to join them. Climbing Mont Blanc as a group of only inexperienced people is even more dangerous than climbing solo. To give a few examples: If you're roped up, then if one of the group falls, more than likely the rest gets pulled down as soon as the rope gets taut. If it's not steep, that doesn't matter, but as it gets steeper (and depending on the terrain) sometimes one person can still perform a self arrest, but stopping a whole falling group is much harder, often impossible. So, being roped up can provide a false sense of security. That doesn't mean you shouldn't rope up, it means you must know when to rope up and when not, and when you do rope up, some members of your group must know about where and how to belay. Furthermore, when not roped up, inexperienced climbers tend to dislodge more rock and ice, which may fall on the rest of the group and on others that might be climbing somewhere below you. Not good.
by rgg » Fri Feb 17, 2017 9:52 am
clmbr wrote:Also I would do research and find out why and under what circumstances so many people die on Mont Blanc every year (Am I correct about accidents?). You may get a lot of clues what to avoid and what and how to prepare for the climb as well as how to climb properly to lower the probability of unfavorable incidents. I don’t think any of those people thought of being unprepared or wanted to die.
by Fletch » Fri Feb 17, 2017 10:06 pm
rgg wrote:The most dangerous place is the Grand Couloir, on the normal route, which is by far the most popular one.
by clmbr » Sat Feb 18, 2017 2:23 am
Here in California we have Mt Baldy "which is by far the most popular one" among Southern Californians and I always think of it and compare to Mont Blanc, obviously not due to the climbing challenges but with similar number of fatalities and reasons (maybe except rockfalls?). Rescue on Register Ridge - Mt Baldyrgg wrote:The most dangerous place is the Grand Couloir, on the normal route, which is by far the most popular one.
As of roping up, in the US lengths get shorter and shorter in between climbers; at least that what I observe in guiding groups. I’ve read online some arguments in between guides about proper lengths. Well, the winner is always the one who survives the fall. In mountaineering I have "No Fall" policy but still prefer to have “safe” distance and minimum slack on the rope if climb with others. I just don’t see any sense of short roping on glacier (perhaps it works if you have 6 people on rope?) but again this may be a long discussion.Fletch wrote:. . .
Agreed. But I will say, it's not that bad. What is bad is the short roping... Americans tend to leave too much length on their rope and the Europeans tend to keep it too short.
. . .
by AlpineTrails » Sun Feb 26, 2017 10:17 pm
by andyward » Fri Oct 13, 2017 9:39 am
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