Wickersham Wall on Denali

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JHH60

 
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Wickersham Wall on Denali

by JHH60 » Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:04 am

I stumbled across this article on the 1963 first (and only?) ascent of the Wickersham Wall on Denali's North Face by members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club. Summitposters may find it interesting reading.

https://harvardmagazine.com/2013/08/climbing-the-wickersham-wall

Some quick googling suggests that as of now the climb is still unrepeated. Is anyone aware of a second ascent?

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Josh Lewis, McCannster, Sierra Ledge Rat

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Sunny Buns

 
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Re: Wickersham Wall on Denali

by Sunny Buns » Thu Nov 16, 2017 4:32 am

Perhaps that particular line "Harvard Route" hasn't been climbed, but this article says a Canadian group climbed the wall the month before the Harvard group by an easier line - 5th paragraph down:

http://www.thecrimson.com/article/1963/ ... ing-on-mt/

Apparently some have skiied down the wall: (if you click on the photo you can see both of the routes mentioned above)
http://www.earnyourturns.com/4216/tr-sk ... all-part1/
This is a little larger version of the photo:
http://www.earnyourturns.com/wp-content ... _b_10x.jpg

Confirmed 2 teams climbed the wall in 1963:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denali#Climbing_history

Here's another photo of the wall:
https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/108535918

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96avs01, Old School WB

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96avs01

 
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Re: Wickersham Wall on Denali

by 96avs01 » Thu Nov 16, 2017 6:07 pm

Sunny Buns wrote:Apparently some have skiied down the wall: (if you click on the photo you can see both of the routes mentioned above)
http://www.earnyourturns.com/4216/tr-sk ... all-part1/
This is a little larger version of the photo:
http://www.earnyourturns.com/wp-content ... _b_10x.jpg


Many thanks for this info! This was also a great read on the topic, http://www.earnyourturns.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Wick-spread.gif

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JHH60

 
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Re: Wickersham Wall on Denali

by JHH60 » Mon Nov 20, 2017 8:47 pm

Sunny Buns wrote:Perhaps that particular line "Harvard Route" hasn't been climbed, but this article says a Canadian group climbed the wall the month before the Harvard group by an easier line - 5th paragraph down:

http://www.thecrimson.com/article/1963/ ... ing-on-mt/



Thanks for the reference. I found that article after I made my original posting but didn't get around to updating it. :oops:

I was also interested to learn that the Donald Jensen referred to in the articles is the same Don Jensen who was a well known Sierra climber, guide for the Palisade School of Mountaineering, and designer of climbing gear.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15w/wfeature-searching-for-jensen


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