Need advises on Northern Rockies alpine routes

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Climbing Frenchmen

 
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Need advises on Northern Rockies alpine routes

by Climbing Frenchmen » Thu Jan 10, 2019 2:30 am

Hello, we're a party of two French-Canadian climbers that would like to climb in the Northern Rockies in either late spring or early summer 2019 for a approximately a two weeks trip. However we had never climbed in US Rockies and would like to get some advises/tips on best suggested routes to ascent summits, and suggested time of year for best climbing. For alpine route, we're comfortable with Class 4 climbs (average 5.5-5.6 route on rock) and grade 4 ice climbing. We would like to avoid crowded period. I understand Teton Range is a must, but would we get great diversity if we remain in one area for 2 weeks? Is there any good guide book for route description. thx for your input.

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MtnGuide

 
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Re: Need advises on Northern Rockies alpine routes

by MtnGuide » Thu Jan 10, 2019 5:20 am

Grand Teton National Park is a great central reference point as a basecamp, and a reference to other climbing areas, North & South.
You can fly into Jackson Hole, Wyo. from several regional hubs, like Denver, Colorado, and Salt Lake City, maybe even Oakland, Calif.

The Wind River Range to the south of the Tetons, near Pinedale, is excellent. Yellowstone National Park has the Absaroka Mtns. across the valley and north. Glacier National Park, in Northern Montana has some of the most scenic peaks. It is on the border with Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada, and one can get into the Bugaboo Spires of the Selkirk Mtns. in SW British Columbia, Canada.

There is also great peak hiking in the Wasatch Mtns. behind Salt Lake City and Provo, Utah, near Sundance, but not so much granite faces as the Tetons and Wind River Range.

You can find photos, trip reports, maps, etc. here on Summitpost.org.

Have Fun!

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MtnGuide

 
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Re: Need advises on Northern Rockies alpine routes

by MtnGuide » Thu Jan 10, 2019 5:23 am

"Guidebook to the Grand Tetons." (by Leigh Ortenburger(?))

"Guide to the Wind River Range," etc.

Call Exum Guides in Tetons.

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charlesj

 
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Re: Need advises on Northern Rockies alpine routes

by charlesj » Sat Jan 19, 2019 2:42 pm

I second the recommendation for Wind River Range. It's more remote than the Tetons and very spectacular. We did Gannett, Fremont and several lower peaks in August 2017. That was a 1-wk trip, but you could easily spend 2 weeks there. There's another part of the range that we did not visit, further south, around Cirque of the Towers, and in two weeks you could do both sections. For Gannett and some of its neighbors you need glacier travel. Most other summits were free of snow by mid August. There are lots of options from easy scrambles to very technical routes. The Kelsey guidebook is excellent. Good luck!

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Climbing Frenchmen

 
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Re: Need advises on Northern Rockies alpine routes

by Climbing Frenchmen » Thu Feb 21, 2019 1:43 am

Thank you for advices. we will likely be there sometime in June for 2 weeks. Lots of my research onlines fall back to hiking, which is not really what we are looking for (we don't mind hiking to a basecamp to stage our climbs). But Ièm sure if I keep digging I'll find more technical climbing resources. Is there a good hut system in the Grand Tetons, or one should expect to tent. Is there a central point (i.e.: mountain centre with accomodation or tent site) within the Park. How easy is it to move around the park to different access point for interior climbs? Im asking if you recommend renting a vehicle or not? cheers

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seano

 
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Re: Need advises on Northern Rockies alpine routes

by seano » Thu Feb 21, 2019 1:45 pm

We don't really do huts in the States -- it's mostly savage "voluntary bivouacs". However in the Tetons, you can stay at the Climbers' Ranch, a bunkhouse at the base of the peaks. A fit climber can do many popular routes Ranch-to-Ranch in a day, but most people seem to bivouac half-way up, which requires a permit. If you go to the Tetons, you will not need a vehicle; otherwise, you will.

Summitpost covers a number of technical climbs in the Tetons, and there are more on Mountainproject.


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